The Alavi Bohras: A tiny community in my Small Town Vadodara

Base Article by SANDHYA GAJJAR (a member of Heritage Trust, Baroda)

The current global population of the Alavi Bohras is barely 8000. Of these, 6500 live in my small town. Surprised? Even I was.

I was first introduced to the low-profile Alavi Bohra community by Chandrashekhar Patil in November 2015 at the very first week-long Vadodara Peoples Heritage Festival. Patil had managed to convince the leaders of this very tiny well-educated community to participate in the Festival with an ‘Alavi Bohra Heritage Walk’ and for the very first time the Badri Mohalla in the Wadi-Gendigate, where most of the families live and which houses the home and office of the 45th Aqaa Maulaa Saiyedna Saheb, their spiritual leader, saw so many Barodians interact with the community, welcomed warmly into their Art Deco-style homes with beautiful wooden furniture, especially cupboards.

That event, which incidentally inaugurated the Festival that year, has since worked very well for both – the Alavi Bohra community and the Heritage Trust. The Alavi Bohras suddenly got a lot of media coverage and Heritage enthusiasts' attention. The Trust has organised Heritage Walks here ending with their superb traditional ‘thaal’ meal! The most recent Walk was held on 11 Feb 2024, Sunday evening.

The Alavi Bohra community’s engagement with my town (which has been their home for about 350 years now) has been constant but muted. The community is essentially mercantile and trading in tin, glass, photo-framing, textiles, civil engineering hardware, sanitary-ware, paints, and so on. Education is highly valued (there is 100% literacy), and most girls complete graduation or post-graduation, if not then high school. However, their presence has been so low profile, that the unique language they speak – Lisaan ud Da’wat – a blend of four languages – Arabic, Persian, Urdu and Gujarati (with a predominance of Gujarati syntax) and written in the Arabic script, completely escaped the researchers at Bhasha Institute and it was a matter of pure bad luck that it missed being included as one of the active spoken languages in the Gujarat state volume of the encyclopedic Peoples Linguistic Survey of India prepared by Bhasha Research and Publication Centre in 2013-14.

The Alavi Bohras trace their ancestry to Cairo more than 1000 years back when a group of selected scholars were sent through Yemeni missionaries by the holy Imaam to establish the Shi'i-Isma’ili Da’wat (mission) in Khambhat/Cambay, Gujarat. It is to be noted that Khambhat was then a very important port from which global trade happened, especially to the Arab world, European nations and east/north-east African countries. The people who were living in the Indian subcontinent and secretly following Islamic faith from the time of Prophet Muhammad (d. 632 AD) supported the Yemeni scholars and those who were new to Islamic faith came up as a newly identified community and established themselves here to be known as the Bohras, the name signifying those who did ‘vyavahar’, a Gujarati word, or who were ‘traders’. Between 1589 AD and 1621 AD in Ahmedabad, there were two major splits that occurred in the mainstream Bohra community, leading to the formation of three major groups of Bohras – Alavis, Dawoodis and Sulaymanis. Among these Alavis hold the minority status.

When planning a heritage walk in any area of our town, I always do a recce no matter how familiar I am with all the points of contacts. In a living town, things can change dramatically in a matter of months. The first Alavi Bohra Heritage Walk in 2015 was an eye-opener, because obviously I was experiencing everything for the first time. When I put together a Walk for the Heritage Trust in 2020 just weeks before the planet went crazy with Covid, I penciled in the ‘thaal’ dinner for the Walk participants to experience a different dining tradition of Alavi Bohras. During that evening Walk, Royal family members guided us through several iconic Art Deco buildings in the Badri Mohalla, some of them empty of their original owners (who were living elsewhere in the country or abroad) but where local caretakers had the keys. Though the Mohalla is not very long, and even taking into consideration that the Walk included a meeting with the Saiyedna saheb, the Walk group managed to reach the dinner site only around 8.30 pm at the modern Talib Patel designed Nooraani Masjid’s jamaa'at-khaana just at the mouth of the Mohalla. That’s how much there was to see in there, how very much to photograph!

This time it was a completely different Walk than the last one. Time had taken its toll, as it always does. Many old buildings were replaced by narrow 6-7 storey high modern structures. The old house that was opened for us by the caretaker last time in 2020 was locked and mired in dust as the caretaker herself had passed away, her own home bolted and padlocked. So Bhaisaheb took us on another walk down history.

It was during the 1699 AD that the Alavis migrated to Baroda from Ahmedabad. The 28th, 29th and 30th Da’i al-Mutlaq were all born in Baroda, in the Fakhri Mohalla near Gendigate. This Mohalla also houses several Alavi Bohra families. During the time when the Gujarat Sultanate ruler Muzaffar Shah III (around 1570s) ruled Gujarat, Saiyedi Musanji bin Taaj Saheb of Vadodara went on pilgrimage to Hajj and promised (mannat) to build a mosque if he would return to Baroda safe and sound. Which he fortunately did. So he built the mosque in Fakhri Mohalla, the oldest mosque for Alavi Bohras in Baroda. But in the meanwhile, the Moghuls had already conquered Gujarat calling an end to the Gujarat Sultanate. There was some disagreement regarding the inauguration of the new mosque in 1577 AD between Musanji saheb and the local Moghul emissary and it led to a horrifying torture and martyrdom of Musanji saheb at Mandvi. His grave/mazaar is outside of Panigate.

So we walked to the Fakhri Mohalla, even smaller than the Badri Mohalla, taking in the crowded markets on both sides of the street, shops selling indigenous perfumes, woven headgear with intricate geometrical designs worn by the males in the community, textiles, footwear, spices, and what have you. The Fakhri Mohalla is opposite a vast old Wada that stretches a good 150 meters along the street (another reason to go to that part of the Walled City!). Two buildings with intricate decorative stucco work on the façade rise almost five storeys high, both locked. They were built a few years before Independence when the Art Deco movement in India was at the height of its popularity. At the end of that short lane is the entrance to the Musanji Masjid also called Taaj Masjid, that was recently re-named again after the extensive repairs and reconstruction work to the old structure. It is believed that it has underground water storage and rain-harvesting channels underneath the old mosque which has been closed due to the fear of collapsing on account of heavy construction activities.

But the even more interesting aspect is the narrow passage (patli gali) right next to the masjid that allows just one person at a time to walk along and which turns right as we go along, the wall to the left made by the really old narrow bricks that date pre-British. At both ends of that passage were metal poles stuck right in the middle. In fact, at the entrance to the gali on the masjid side even had a triangular piece removed from the stone step of the home right next to it, so as to make it easy for a person to step into the gali. The old buildings on the other side of the gali were in a poor shape but one could still see how once they must have been the glory of these congested mohallas.

Then walkers entered the mosque premises with the Royal family members and other local associates who had arranged Alavi Bohra dinner Thaal for us in the nearby Taaj Hall. We were spellbound to witness the splendor of 450 yrs old mosque, its majestic mehrabs, pillars, glass frames, Qur'anic verses engraved on marble, a nicely shaped central qiblah where a designated person leads daily prayers. A notable thing was that old sandstone heritage qiblah structure was restored and redesigned in the place adjacent to the mosque where ladies usually pray. It was to remind people of its past glory and mosque design. 

And from here we went to the hall on the first floor to a delightful and tastefully presented thaal meal, six of us around a large platter on which were placed plates of salad, fragrant mava-filled lanka-dhaan (ghughra), a undhiyu with fried and spiced mutton pieces, a fabulous steamed fish with flavor-some green chutney, chicken biryani with raita, followed by fresh fruit and phinni in clay bowls and finally, paan. The diners were most satiated so I guess everything served was equally mouth-watering. Couldn’t be a better end to a wonderful Sunday!

By the joint venture and efforts of ad-Da’wat ul-Haadiyat ul-‘Alaviyah and Heritage Trust of Vadodara, on 9th Feb 2020, 15th Jumaadi ul-Ukhraa 1441, Sunday evening, the Alavi Heritage Walk was organized in which around 50 heritage enthusiastics participated.  They got a great opportunity in knowing the cultural, historic and religious aspects of our Alavi Bohras.  Apart from Devdi Mubaarak and Nooraani Masjid, the group visited different houses that were constructed before 80 years during the time of 42nd Da'i ul Mutlaq Saiyedna Badruddin saheb (aq).

The houses of Fakhruddin Amiruddin, Shaikhali Alibhai and Qurbanhusain Sharafali are well maintained and the old architecture has been meticulously preserved.   The Bohra style of wooden wall cupboards, galleries overlooking the main chowk, “Naw-khaana” in the inner-most room called “awaas”, the tradition of “Khaat”, wide wooden staitcase, “maanni” for keeping crockery, kitchen and bathroom near the chowk, wooden bed having roof and all-sided curtain, a big space at the entrance “Otla” etc.  The group was overwhelmed to see such minuteness and care in Bohra-style of living.

Saiyedna saheb Aqaa Maulaa (tus) addressed the gathering at Devdi Mubaarak and said that, “We should work as a Team for the preservation of our city Vadodara’s rich and unparallel heritage.  You all people of Heritage Trust are doing well-planned great job by culturally bringing all the communities of Vadodara together and spearheading the awareness drive for the importance of safe-guarding our splendid heritage.  Our city is 2000 yrs old and so its historical impact on Indian social arena.  I hope, you and we have a common path to see our city throbbing with cultural liveliness.”

The art and craftsmanship of Bohra topi-weaving and having the lazzat of Bohra cuisine were the main attraction of the Heritage walk.

After becoming the member of the Vadodara Heritage Committee Ra’s ul Hudood Saheb with the help of Heritage Activist and Famous Conservationist of Restorer of Heritage Structures Mr. Chandrashekhar  Sureshchandra Patil organized Vadodara Heritage Walk – Raopura Sector only for Alavi Mumineen and Muminaat on 8th May 2016, Sunday at 7:30 am starting from the compound of Collectorate.

The area is distinguished with the tales of Rich Historical accounts and Heritage Monuments since 2000 years.  It was the first human settlement near the Vishwamitri river that gradually transformed into the beautiful city of Vadodara.  The Heritage walk included the buildings of First Library of Vadodara, First Jail of Vadodara, Archives Building, Pot Museum, GPO and Khari Vav, Tambekar Wada, Kothi Building, Kharchiker Haveli etc.  Many of the participants were enthralled and amazed to know the never heard tales and facts of Vadodara History.

Mukaasir saheb (dm) said that, “By seeing all these things we should always remember our Faatemi Imaams who were the pioneers of conceptualizing and building the Smart City.  In the tenth century AD itself has thrown open the arena of the splendor of Islamic Architecture and shaping the future of Egypt as a Marvelous Heritage and Legacy.  These representatives and Hujjat of Allaah Ta’aala, the gems of Aal-e-Mohammad (sa) Faatemi Imaams were having an outstanding capabilities to exhibit their mastery and vision in Architecture and Art.  Today Cairo is boasting of their Magnificent Monuments.”

“We always remember our Forefathers A’immat of Cairo and Du’aat of Yaman, when we see such type of Heritage buildings.  We too have a rich Heritage and History.  The stretch between Patan and Vadodara was dotted with Isma’ili Taiyebi Bohras settlements even before the foundation of Ahmedabad city.  Our several mohallas existed in the Walled city of Vadodara even before the seat of Da’wat Shareefah shifted to Ahmedabad from Yaman.  Seeing the cultural richness of Bohras Ahmad Shah invited us to get settled in Ahmedabad in the 15th century AD.”

“We must always encourage our new generation to protect and preserve our Heritage and never forget out roots and origin.”

Vadodara celebrated World Heritage Day – 18th April 2016, with a bang and fervor. Many events and shows were organized across the city and will continue for a week. There is increased sense of awareness among the Barodians as far as Heritage Talks and Walks are concerned and that is a good sign for the coming generations. Through the perseverant efforts of Heritage Lovers, city has undergone a move of Re-exploration and Re-discovery.

In the Heritage wave of change and transformation we also hosted a Alavi Bohra Heritage Walk for the first time in our history by the encouragement and personal interest of His Holiness Saiyedna Haatim Zakiyuddin Saheb TUS – who for the first time opened the doors of Devdi Mubaarak for the netizens to have a look at our rich Heritage.

That was the beginning and we have been at the forefront as far as Heritage events are concerned. A Monumental Life of Vadodara – An Exhibition of Monuments and their Stories through Pictures; was organized by Mr Sachin Kaluskar along with the renowned photographer Mr Fanil Pandya – who approached us to highlight the story of Alavi Bohras too.

Huzoor-e-‘Aali TUS agreed to them and proposed the story of Educational and Industrial transformation of Alavi Bohra Community in the last 50 yrs. The photographer clicked the photos of leading Industrialists and Teachers in Badri Mohalla. However the story was subjected to the selection process by Vadodara Civic Authorities.

For the representation of the Alavi Bohra Community they selected one photograph – Ra’s o Hudood id Da’wat il Alaviyah Zulqarnain Hakeemuddin saheb in the backdrop of an old building – giving a lucid idea of Badri Mohalla in the yesteryears and the transformation in the recent past. The photograph is displayed at the Citizen’s Information Gallery at the Collectorate Office, Kothi Cross Roads. The exhibition will continue till 22nd April 2016. It is the matter of pride for us that from 17 selected photographs, our community story has been selected and is on the display.

Vadodara Heritage Walk Training Program was organized by the Vadodara Municipal Corporation on 4th and 5th March 2016. Heritage conservators and promoters from across the city and state also joined the slow but perseverant movement initiated to educate people and spread awareness about the Rich Heritage of Vadodara. Similar events like Heritage Walks are regularly organized in Ahmedabad and gradually an altogether new facet of Heritage Tourism has gained momentum.  The aim of this program is to promote Heritage Walks in different places of Vadodara too.

Settlement in the Vadodara city dates back to almost 2000 yrs on the banks of Vishwamitri river near Akota and Kothi. We have learned a lot about it when for the first time Huzoor-e-‘Aali TUS, under his personal interest, encouraged us to organize Alavi Bohra Heritage Walk during the Heritage Week in November 2015. With the Raza of Huzoor-e-‘Aali TUS, Ra's ul Hudood Dr. Zulqarnain Hakeemuddin attended the training program of Heritage Walk held in Vadodara.

Though we are born in Vadodara but after attending the two day program we felt that we really know very little about our own Princely City and the mubaarak city of the birth of our respected Da'i Syedna Ali saheb QR.  Alavi Bohras are one of the major contributors to the culture, heritage and literature of Vadodara as far as the rule of Gaekwads is concerned. We are looking forward to actively participate in the similar events in the future. And our goal is to rediscover the history of Alavi Bohra community in Vadodara and connect it to the then rulers of Baroda State.  History and Heritage enthusiastics are very positive and are showing keen interest in unfolding the untouched page of Alavi Bohra history that how they were helped by Miya Mahmood to get settled in the Wadi area.