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  • Coconuts are having a moment. These days you'll find coconut...

    Coconuts are having a moment. These days you'll find coconut waters in every supermarket and vending machine. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune/MCT)

  • Coconuts are having a moment. These days you'll find coconut...

    Coconuts are having a moment. These days you'll find coconut waters in every supermarket and vending machine. The hairy brown ovoid is not a true nut but the stone of a drupe, which makes it related to peaches and plums. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune/MCT)

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Some say coconut water tastes like rotten fruit. Others think it smells like sweat. But a growing number are reaching for the tropical, earthy libation as a toast to their health.

Unlike creamy coconut milk, the water found inside young, green coconuts is fat-free, minimally sweet, low in calories, high in electrolytes and packed with as much potassium as a banana. It has all the benefits of a sport drink — but naturally.

Store shelves are crowded with fresh, bottled and flavored coconut waters. Some are made from concentrate. Some swim with pulp. Others are pasteurized, “pressure treated” or raw. And the coconuts themselves hail from Thailand to Brazil.

Those who don’t care for the understated green nut flavor will want to look for flavored waters that are higher in calories. Purists should check the label to be sure the water is not made from concentrate, which can result in a muddled, unpleasant flavor and odor.

Here’s the scoop on the best — and worst.

Harmless Harvest Raw Coconut Water

Authentic coconut flavor, crisp flavor and just a hint of natural sweetness make this coconut water crave-worthy. It’s good enough to chug. An 8-ounce serving has 56 calories, 514 mg. potassium, and costs $2.49 at Sprouts. (4 stars)

Trader Joe’s Pure Coconut Water with Vitamin C

The citrusy twist added to this ultra-fresh water from Brazilian coconuts makes for a pleasant gulp. It’s perfect for those who like their water slightly sweet. An 8-ounce serving has 50 calories, 450 mg. potassium. A 33.8-ounce box is $2.99. (4 stars)

O.N.E. Coconut Water

Purists who enjoy the flavor of coconut water will appreciate the straightforward flavor profile of this ultraclean version. An 8-ounce serving has 45 calories, 435 mg. potassium. A 16.9-ounce box is $3.19 at CVS. (3 ½ stars)

Coco Libre Pure Organic Coconut Water

A touch of vanilla underscores the natural nutty flavor of this slightly sweet water, giving it a dairy-like taste. An 8-ounce serving has 43 calories, 500 mg. potassium. One liter is $3.99 at Sprouts. (3 stars)

Naked All Natural Pure Coconut Water

Even non-coconut water fans may like this simple, unsweetened version that tastes more like water than anything else. An 11.2-ounce box has 50 calories, 620 mg. potassium. A box is $1.99 at Sprouts. (2 ½ stars)

Amy & Brian’s All Natural Coconut Juice

The brown sugar flavor of this water, made from Thai coconuts, lacks freshness, but it’s sweet enough to stand in for other juices. An 8-ounce serving has 60 calories (potassium not listed.) A 17.5-ounce can is $1.99 at Whole Foods. (2 ½ stars)

Sprouts 100% Coconut H20

The honey backdrop of this fruity version is a bit too sweet, and it has a cooked flavor. An 8-ounce serving has 75 calories, 400 mg. potassium. A 17.5-ounce can is $1.69. (2 stars)

Zico Natural Pure Premium Coconut Water

This slightly muddled, flat-tasting water is so lacking in sweetness, it’s almost sour. An 11.2-ounce box has 70 calories, 490 mg. potassium. An 11.2-ounce box is $1.49 at Trader Joe’s. (2 stars)

Taste Nirvana Real Coconut Water

The syrupy texture of this ultra-sweet, slightly soapy tasting water is made worse by the addition of slimy coconut pulp chunks. A 9.5-ounce serving has 60 calories, 400 mg. potassium. A 9.5-ounce bottle is $2.19 at Safeway. (½ star)

Vita Coco Pure Coconut Water

The funky odor and odd, plantlike flavor of this sweet water make it taste old. A box has 60 calories, 620 mg. potassium. An 11.1-ounce box is $1.99 at Sprouts. (½ star)

C20 Pure Coconut Water

Dirty socks dusted with sugar would taste worse, but not by much. An 8-ounce serving has 50 calories, 300 mg. potassium. A 17.5-ounce can is $1.99 at Sprouts. (No stars)

Blue Monkey Coconut Water

This water is ultra-sweet, but no amount of sugar can cut through the bold, tinny flavor. An 8-ounce serving has 76 calories, 290 mg. potassium. An 11.2-ounce can is $1.59 at Whole Foods. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com.