This is from Marius Kociejowski's
[MK] forthcoming book, The
Serpent Coiled in Naples.
My reference title in the excerpts table
(below) is simply "Pulcinella". MK's
original title in the book is
The Life
and Death (and Life) of Pulcinella
Charles MacFarlane in his Popular
Customs, Sports and Recollections of the South
of Italy (1846)
provides a first-hand account of Pulcinella.
MacFarlane’s book contains this precise
description of a Pulcinella theatre:
This truly
national theatre was situated not far from the
great theatre of San Carlo … it was called San
Carlino, or little San Carlo; and little
it was, and far from being splendid in its
appointments and accessories. The boxes were on
a level with the street or square, and to get to
the pit you had to descend some thirty feet into
the bowels of the earth, and to dive down a
steep staircase not unlike that by which
Roderick Random and his faithful Strap dived for
their dinner. The price paid for admission was
very small; I think it was about a shilling for
a seat in the boxes, and about sixpence for a
seat in the pit. Everywhere there is a
‘fashionable world,’ and a set of superfine
people who deprive themselves of much racy and
innocent amusement from a notion that it is not
genteel. San Carlino was rarely visited except
by the second and third rate classes of
burgesses, for the native fashionables
considered it as ‘low,’ and very few foreigners
ever acquired a sufficient knowledge of the
patois or dialect to enjoy and fully understand
these rich Neapolitan farces, and the perennial
wit and humour of our friend Punch. But before I
quitted Naples this ridiculous prejudice seemed
to be on the decline, for a few young men of
family, who had wit as well as high birth, had
appreciated the genius of that living
Policinella, and had made the little cellar
almost fashionable.
For myself, I very often
strolled away from the gorgeous and fine and
thoroughly artificial Opera-house, to enjoy a
little homely nature and drollery in San
Carlino, where I laughed more than I shall ever
laugh again. As in every other theatre in the
city, there was always present a commissary of
police, to preserve order and decorum, and check
any too free use of the tongue on the stage.
This representative of the laws and of majesty
itself, wore a blue court-cut coat embroidered
with silver; he sat in what we call a stage-box,
on a high-backed chair, covered with faded
crimson velvet; and behind his back there were
two large wax candles and the royal arms of the
Two Sicilies painted upon a bit of board. But
not all this official splendour could repress
the hilarity or stifle the roguish impromptus of
friend Punch; and we saw at times the
starch-visaged commissary, after some vain
attempts to maintain his dignity, hold both his
sides, and join in the universal roar of
laughter: and this too even when Signor
Policinella had gone beyond bounds and handled
matters strictly tabooed. What [Joseph] Forsyth
said of the Molo and the Marionettes, and
out-door Punch, might be more correctly applied
to San Carlino:—‘This is a theatre where
any stranger may study for nothing the manners
of the people. At the theatre of San Carlo the
mind, as well as the man, seems parted off from
its fellows in an elbow-chair. There all is
regulation and silence: no applause, no censure,
no object worthy of attention except the court
and the fiddle. There the drama — but what is a
drama in Naples without Punch? or what is Punch
out of Naples? Here, in his native tongue, and
among his own countrymen, Punch is a person of
real power: he dresses up and retails all the
drolleries of the day; he is the channel and
sometimes the source of the passing opinions; he
can inflict ridicule, he could gain a mob, or
keep the whole kingdom in good humour.
[Again, MK] No Pulcinella, no Naples.
Shall we go the whole hog and say that in his
myriad dualities may be located the soul of the
Neapolitan people?
These are the chapters
in Marius Kociejowski's The Serpent Coiled
in Naples that currently have small
excerpts in Naples, Life, Death &
Miracles. There is also an extra item MK
(after #15).
Ch.1 -
introduction - Ch.2 - An Octopus in
Forcella - Ch.3- Listening
to Naples - Ch.4 - Lake Averno -
Ch.5 - Street
music - Ch.6
- Leopardi - Ch.7 - R. di Sangro
- Ch.8 -
Old Bones - Ch.9 - The Devil
-
Ch.10 - Signor
Volcano- Ch.10(2)
(3) -Ch.
11- Pulcinella (above)-Ch.12 -Boom - Boom(2) -
Ch.13-Two Women-
Ch. 14- The
Ghost Palace - Ch. 15- An
Infintesimal Particle
-
(extra) Riccardo
Carbone, photographer.
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