When the chestnuts have been gathered, in the Castagniccia, around Bocognano, Evisa, Ajaccio and some other areas (Deux-Sevi, Soro, Haut-Taravo, Prunelli) in the months of October and November, the great work of working up the chestnuts follows.
They dry and grind them in order to make the famous chestnut-flour, used in cakes and pastries, bread, nougat and in lots of delicious dishes. Try the delicacy "marrons glaçés" for example. Dont't forget the pulenda, a sort of porridge, made since ages.The honey, the liqueurs, even beer!
You can buy the flour on Corsica in shops, which sell Corsican specialities, but also in some supermarkets. And of course on the special fairs. You can take it home, but do store it in the refrigerator!

As protecting and feeding trees, the chestnut-trees have played an essential role in the history of many mediterranean people.
In all European languages the Greek term "kastana" indicates, that u castagnu was undoubtedly unknown in the Mediterranean area before its arrival in the antique Greek territories. Slowly the "arbre à pain", the "bread-tree", began to grow on the coasts along the "Mare Nostrum".

In Corsica, the presence of the chestnut-tree has been mentioned since the beginning of the XIIIth century. Although palynology (study of pollen) showed its presence since the Neolithicum.
It's the start of a long history, which will deeply mark the society, the economy, the daily life, food and the landscapes of the Ile de Beauté. A history, that is marked nowadays by a renewal and a diversification.

From 1284 - 1729 Corsica was dominated by the Genoese.
In 1584 the Governor of Genua decided that all farmers and landowners on Corsica had to plant four trees yearly: a chestnut-, olive-, fig- and mulberry-tree.
The economy, and with the economy the political, cultural and social life of the Castagniccia, the most important chestnut-area, began to flourish from the XVIth century on. Lots of villages owe their origin and their former richness to the chestnut-woods.
At the end of the 17th century there were already 100 inhabitants pro square kms. Around 1770 the surface of the Castagniccia was covered by 70% of chestnut-trees. Because the chestnut-flour was an important article of food, the tree was also called, as said: "arbre à pain". The hard, durable wood was used for a.o. furniture and whine-casks.

THE PRESENT

The yearly harvest is about 1200 tons of gathered chestnuts, of which 85% is transformed in more than 300 tons of flour, sold and consumed on the island. The species that is seen most, is the "castanea sativa", but on the island more than 60 varieties are found, according to their environments. Thus each is representative for a region and, according to the taste, its flavour is destined to a very special use: direct consumption (boiled or roasted), transformation into flour, conserved, confectionary, pastry, confiserie, pâtisserie or animal food. Generally during the month of August they start the preparation for the harvest. The soil underneath the chestnut-trees has to be cleaned from everything, that could have grown since the harvest of the year before. From the beginning of October, the course of the harvest vary according to the species, depending on their ripeness and the destination of the fruits. Traditionally just the chestnuts, fallen on the ground, out of their shells, are gathered, with the help of a short rake, u ruspatoghju, the gatherer searches between the leaves. The gatherer, u cudditore, puts them carefully in his basket, a sporta, u spurtellu. Helping hands from the village people are very welcome and mules are indispensable on the slopes, to transport the chestnuts. Once the harvest has been done, the chestnuts are put on the drying-loft, u grataghju, where they are put on a lathwork on a certain height over a constant and slow fire, u fucone. This fire will burn about 25 days and thus slowly dries the chestnuts, which are stirred a lot of times during the week, in order to get a uniform result. People have to work for hours in a smoky drying-room. The control over the fire is a question of experience and perseverence. After the drying, the chestnuts are put in a threshing machine, in order to shell them. Then they are put in a blowing machine, to remove the last skin. This skin contains a lot of tannin, a lesina. The more tannin, the more bitter, so that they have to remove the last tannin with a little knife to get the best quality of the fruits. In this phase the chestnut can be eaten as a delicacy with a highly appreciated flavour. Then they are put, in little quantities, in a riddle, where they are sorted out one by one. Every imperfect chestnut is removed, to get a very good quality. Afterwards they are transported to the traditional hydraulic mill, where the fruits are heated in the oven, and then pulverized by the big mill-stones. The flour, thus obtained, is very fine and light. In the 19th century there were lots of mills, mostly watermills, which were used for the corn as well as for the chestnut. There are probably still two grinding watermills left. The way of grinding doesn't make any difference for the flavour of the flour.

Not only men are fond of chestnuts, pigs love them as well! Many pig-breedings have been started in the past. There are still the half-wild, legendarian Corsican pigs, wandering in the chestnut-woods,and along the roads, looking for the fallen fruits. The so called "porcs coureurs". Their meat is much appreciated by the gourmands as well: like the coppa, lonzu and figatelli. During the gathering of the chestnuts proclamations from the mayor are nailed on tree-trunks prohibiting farmers to let their cattle roam free; pigs, sheep, goats and cows must be kept in their enclosure so that they will not disturbe the gathering. Years ago the chestnut-flour was an important product in the exchange by bart, very common in the special economy of the Mezzogiorno (the area of Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily and the south of Italy). It is characterized by a relative underdevelopment. Flour in exchange to olive-oil, wine, cheese, meat, citrusfruit, etc. mutually. You still find it in some form on Corsica.

The flavour is sweet-smelling and uncomparable. It has a light beige colour in the Castagniccia and is darker in other regions. Thanks to the flour the gastronomes feast upon the famous and ancestral pulenda, warm porridge served with fresh milk, or the subtle granaghjoli. Gourmands and gastronomes can taste as well the succulent "marrons glaçés", liqueurs, cakes, honey, jam, nougat, frosted desserts and even beer from chestnuts, all Corsican! Pietra, the Corsican chestnut beer The chestnuts used come from the most beautiful and highest chestnut grove in Europe, located in the Castagniccia, at an altitude of over 1,000 meters. Every autumn the fruit is hand-picked, transported down the hill on donkeys and sorted by hand. This guarantees flour of a very high quality, from a totally natural environment, flour having the Organic label. Highly fermentable, chestnut flour has an excellent impact on the quality of the head and gives beer its beautiful coloring. Mixed into the malt during the mashing process, the chestnut flour is a prime ingredient and not just a flavoring. Chestnut flour does not provide a specific taste, but the end result is remarkable in every respect: a very original bitter tart attack, a lingering aftertaste and very thirst-quenching. An authentic creation for specialty beers.

Two important fairs are:

• The Chestnut Blossom Festival, Fête du Marron, in Evisa, in November:
  to promote the products of the chestnut economy, such is the objective of the organizers of this demonstration whose spearhead is the chestnut of Evisa: Insitina varieties of chestnut offering the characteristic, in addition to its distinctive value, not to present any bulk-heading. In addition the mushroom is associated with this festival.
  www.evisa.fr/decouvrir/chataigneraie
  
  

• Fiera di a Castagna, in Bocognano, end of November
  The chestnut fair considered to be Corsica's largest regional fair, organized by professionals. The chestnut and its different uses are honoured on this occasion, and there is a regional chestnut flour contest.
  Website: www.fieradiacastagna.com
  

  

Lamentu di u Castagnu Barbara Furtuna - Lamentu Di U Castagnu from Vimeo Or chì l'averaghju fattu A lu Corsu cusì ingratu Chì m'ha fattu la sintenza E à morte cundannatu. Senza sente testimoni Nè cunsultà lu ghjuratu. M'hà dichjaratu la guerra Cum'è à un veru malfattore; M'hà messu li sbirri appressu Chì m'attaccanu terrore O Corsu rifletti un pocu, Versi mè si senza core. M'ai chjappu à l'arma bianca, Tù per esse più sicuru, Quandu improntu li mio fiori, Quandu lu fruttu hè maturu. Un mi porti alcun rispettu, O Corsu, sì cusì duru! Un sentu in tutte le borghe Chè tintenne è tintinnoni, Bestemmie di mulatteri, Lu fiscu di li sigoni, E di mule, carri è treni N'hè pienu strade è stradoni. Cantava u mulinaru Ch'avia pienu u mulinu. U cavallu s'avanzava Nenz'à lu so caliscinu, Chì per tutti lu miò fruttu Era Corsu un gran festinu! Un ti ne ricordi più, Corsu, di li tempi andati? Di Sampieru è Sambucucciu, Di tutti li to antenati, Quandu da tanti nemici Eranu sempre assaltati? Ne farai lu tenistaffa, E lustrarai le botte, Durmerai cum'è i cani Quandu vinerà la notte Perchè vindetta dumanda L'alberu di le ballotte. Sempre cù li stracci à collu Passerai piani è muntagne; Camperai à erbiglie crude Racolte in le campagne, Perchè vindetta dumanda L'alberu di le castagne. Have I done any outrage To the ungrateful Corsican? Who condemned me to death. That's his Language. What villainous judgment Without the slightest evidence And without the least debate. He has declared me war As to the greatest villain; And sent the constables after me Who caused my body cold perspiration. Oh Corsican, think about it, You have really no heart for me. You attack me with the naked weapon, To be a bit more sure, When my flowers put forth their buts, When the fruit is nearly ripe. You don't show me any respect Oh Corsican, you are so hard! One hears in all the valleys Rythmic sound of tinkling bells, Curses of the muleteers, The whistling of the saws, And the roads and paths are Full of mules, dogs and carts. The miller was singing Because his mill was filled. The horse moved forward In front of the cart, Because for everybody, oh Corsican My fruit was a big feast! Did you forget, oh Corsican, The revolutionary times? Of Sampieru, full of courage, The virtues of Sambucucciu, Of all the ancestors, when they were Always assaulted by so many ennemies? You will be a servant, You will polish the boots, You will sleep like the dogs When the night comes Because the chestnut-tree Will take revenge. Always dressed in tatters You will pass the plains and mountains; You will live from raw herbs Gathered in the fields, Because the chestnut-tree Will take revenge.

MAL'CUNCILIU,nom du légendaire châtaignier séculaire, à la forme effrayante, en Castagniccia. Il réveille de vieilles terreurs. A son pied se réunissent les Mazzeri, Bergers de la Mort, jeteurs de sorts, sorciers étranges et mystérieux, doté de pouvoirs surnaturels. Sous ses branches se tient le Conseil des Filles du Mal à l'influence maléfique. "Tu si anghjulu e demoniu, A carezza o lu spenventu." text Renzo MEI

 

Sources:

• Méditerranée-Magazine: 2002, Jean-Jacques Andreani/Photos Christian Andreani: La Châtaigne Corse sort de sa Bogue
• Kalliste^®: hiver 2001, Extrait de l'article d'Antoine Albertini: Des Châtaigniers et des Hommes. Photos Philippe Jambert
• Dorothy Carrington, 1995: The Dream-hunters of Corsica
• Nelles Guide, 1996 Corsica; Heike Mühl, Klaus Boll
• Guide Verte, Corse, 1999
• Office National des Forêts, 1996: 7 Promenades en Forêt
• Philippe-Jean Catinchi, 1999: Les Polyphonies Corses
• A Cumpagnia: CD Tempi di Sumente 1994, with the Lamentu di u Castagnu
• Eric Mattei: CD Ella...1995, with the Lamentu di u Castagnu
• Photos: Christian Andreani, Méditerranée-Magazine 2002; Kalliste^® été 2000: chestnut-tree
• Philippe Jambert, Kalliste^®, hiver 2001
  Jacques Ravaux, Office National des Forêts, Yvonne Peters, Nino de Sonneville

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