Gateway Journey to the Wonders of the Desert of Akakus

One of the important aspects of any organised trip is that it reassures the traveler from the outset and that it embeds everlasting memories to treasure for life. From the moment we alighted down the steps of the Bouraq Air flight to Sebha and met our friends at the start of our four-day 1265km desert trip, we knew that our Gateway journey to the wonders of the Desert of Akakus was going to be an unforgettable experience.

Hamed, our Tourag Guide, and Ali, our driver, put us at ease from the outset with their courteous efficiency and warm welcome. As it was too late for us to travel south that evening we headed off to our first overnight stop in Sebha.

After a most enjoyable, relaxing evening at the Al Gebel Hotel on the edge of a cliff we embarked on the desert expedition by heading to the Germa Museum some 170km south of Sebha, traveling through picturesque and history-laden villages such as Abjad, Bil-Haret, il- Hamra, Barzuz, Bint Bayya (Princess's Daughter).

Towns with enchanting names emerge from the desert and fade in the mirror as our vehicles continued south for 170 pleasant kilometers, passing romantically named villages such as Tinahama, Ghar Geba (The neck in English), El Garaja (Reading of the Koran), El Fjieg, Tikkariba, El Kharajk and finally the last two outposts of Twiwa and El Fahhaha before eventually arriving at the little museum at Germa.

From Germa we proceeded west towards Ubari and Sedeles, before returning to Twiwa for lunch at the Ubari Magic Libya camp.

We left Awinat passing through Zinkekra – Grefa – El Hatija and arrived at the Ubari centre, over 200 km from Sebha. Ubari has an early 19th century mosque sometimes referred to as the Tourag Mosque. Then we were off to Sedeles going through Tixwinet a village just before Awinat. Sedeles, which is the northernmost point of the range, is jumping off point for the Jabal Akakus.

We then crossed to Akakus area and got off the main road into a sand path that led to the Akakus Magic Libya Camp. After a cold fresh orange juice that quenched our thirst we were shown to our tents. Later in the evening we had a great dinner.

Early the next morning I was lucky enough to witness the magnificent sunrise coming out from behind the rocks of Akakus. It was most impressive and gave us a brilliant start for the day ahead of us, our much awaited tour of Akakus with our Guide and river Ali both dressed as Tourags. It really made us feel that we were now part of the Desert.

In order to reach the Akakus sites we were driven on sandy wadi beds through canyons. One could see the landscape opens up to the present wide vistas of jogged mountains gnawed by the wind and sun. The predominant colours are blue, gold and shades of plum black. Centuries of sandblasting have darkened the cliff faces.

Despite all the desolation, the sites are easily accessible by a four-wheel vehicle, necessitating a short scramble to reach the cliff shelter where the Prehistoric paintings have wondrously survived.

As our guide Hamed proudly described to us, we were then truly in the 'Heart of Akakus'

A short but an adequate visit to the main sites of the Jabal Akakus, using a four-wheel drive vehicle requires at least 5 days.

While admiring this most spectacular site and scenery near one of the dry lakes, at Tihadin we came across a Tourag Family. Under the watchful eye of their mother, two very young boys aged between three and four rushed out of a house made of straw, chasing each other happily and playing in the clean unpolluted air. Believe me, it could take your breath away!!!

The kids’ father was away trying to get what he co-uld for his lovely family by selling goats, and receiving handouts by passing tourists.

We came across many different desert plants, particularly the very popular Fahhaha. According to Hamed, if one had to thread on this poisonous plant he would have a salty taste for at least three days; if a camel had to bite at this plant - it would die!!! We also came across lovely flying coloured birds, camels, snakes and many others animal spices.

Then we made out way to the cave paintings. The prehistoric rock paintings and carvings of the Jebel Akakus are the big draw of Southwestern Libya. They located in a spectacularly beautiful area.

The Akakus chain of mountains runs north south for 250km, starting from the area just west of Sedeles and finishing down at the Takkark-houri. Geologically these mountains are a continuation of the Tassil-n-Ajjer in neighbouring Algeria. The formation of the Akakus rocks is fantastic and beyond explaining.

On our trip we also came across several dry lakes that from a distance would give the impression they are actually full of fresh water. But it is all an illusion. When you get nearer you could see that they are completely dry.

Although often faded, the rock paintings of the Akakus provide a unique record of life in the Sahara thousands of years ago - some 3000 years. There are paintings of both animals and humans. They range from lively hunting scenes, with beasts in full flight, to stylised representations of human figures, some with little matchstick heads and others with disproportionate round heads.

Some of the scenes are clearly narrative, depicting worship and celebration on a battle. Unfortunately, even after several decades of research, it seems impossible to date the rock paintings with any degree of precision, as is also the case with paintings.
Besides the paintings and carvings, the Akakus region also has other fragile evidence of human settlement. All the painting material was naturally manufactured. Our guide explained that coloured rock would be reduced to powder generally red, more rarely white occasional black or green mixed with Ostrich egg albumen or milk and applied to the rock face.

Akakus’ rock art has made the region very popular.

On our trip we also visited Awls on entering the valley of Til Wawwet. One can witness the different caves with different paintings, this time showing the hunting era. Paintings of humans with Circular Heads, Square Heads and 'Triangle Heads with different Touarag face features from different tribes.

We came to the end of our trip by entered the valley of Adad, which means a Thumb. Then we returned to Sebha Airport, but not before again stopping for lunch at the Ubari Magic Libya Camp that was complimented by a wonderful tasty lunch followed by fresh fruit and cold drinks!

Hamed and Ali did everything in their power to make our visit to the Akakus a memorable trip. They succeeded. What more could one wish for in 40 degrees temperature as we admired nature and its beauty?

Special thanks go to the Magic Libya team particularly Chantal – Mustafa and Eid. Magic Libya has made it happen again for us. I would recommend them to anybody wanting to visit the Desert after this successful trip during which we covered 1265km in four days.

Just before leaving for Sebha Airport, I managed to photograph the most beautiful sunset that I have ever witnessed in my whole life. I will always treasure this photo that will remind us of this unforgettable Gateway journey to the wonders of the Desert of Akakus.

TTONY TABONE
(Executive Chief Concierge at Tripoli's Corinthia Bab Africa Hotel)

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