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Sunday 13 February 2011

Egypt crisis: the charms of an empty Sharm

Carole Edrich, one of the few tourists in Sharm el Sheikh this week, reports on the impact of recent unrest on the region's hoteliers and holidaymakers.

Egypt crisis: the charms of an empty Sharm
 
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Quad bikes at the entrance to Echo Valley, just outside Sharm el Sheikh  Photo: CAROLE EDRICH
Egypt crisis: the charms of an empty Sharm
 
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One Mubarak supporter leaves their mark on an otherwise deserted beach Photo: CAROLE EDRICH
Egypt crisis: the charms of an empty Sharm
 
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St Catherine's Monastery, usually heaving with tourists, welcomes a handful of visitors Photo: CAROLE EDRICH

Sharm el Sheikh was eerily quiet this week. Hordes of winter sun worshippers had been replaced by empty beaches, deserted hotels and restaurants and taxi drivers reduced to playing cards at their ranks.

Given the unrest elsewhere in Egypt, it was unsurprising. Several countries, including Germany, had advised against travelling to the whole of the country. The British Foreign Office has stopped short of advising against travel to the Red Sea resorts and Britons comprised a large number of the tourists in Sharm: others included Russians, French and Americans.

The majority said they felt safe, and while those looking for a party were disappointed, the activities for which Sharm is famed were more enjoyable without the crowds.

“I feel untouched by the political unrest,” said Arlene Toth, a British holidaymaker from Eastbourne. “The scuba diving was great and the dive sites were much quieter – and more enjoyable.”

For locals already worried about relatives and friends caught up in disturbances farther afield, the situation in Sharm - an area unaffected by the anti-Mubarak protests - is exacting a heavy toll.

Mohammed, a scuba diving guide, said: “We have had the bad economy, shark attacks and now this. We depend on tourism so if this carries on we will lose our jobs and our businesses will fail.”

Hoteliers are already making significant discounts (see below) in an effort to get holidaymakers flocking back.

I hope they succeed. I found the people here to be gentle, proud, generous, and deserving of our support.

This is still a magical part of the world. There may be more road blocks than usual, but it was lovely to hire a quad bike and explore the twisting candy-coloured canyons behind Sharm virtually on our own.

On my final day, I visited the sacred site of St Catherine’s Monastery, at the foot of Mount Sinai. There are usually thousands of holidaymakers here, but I enjoyed its relics and icons in almost total peace. For the few of us who did make it, there was a real sense of camaraderie.

Later I met a British couple who said that, in addition to Sharm, they had originally been intending to visit Cairo and the Pyramids. Their operator had instead routed them to the “safer” options of Jerusalem and the Dead Sea. A bizarre twist.

  • Fleetway Travel (0844 571 5380; www.fleetwaytravel.com) is offering 25 per cent off a seven-night stay at the five-star Savoy Hotel Sharm, including flights, until March 15. The discounted price of £499 per person is on a b&b basis; £699 all inclusive.

Egypt: latest advice for travellers


The Foreign Office continued to advise against “all but essential travel” to Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor and Suez following further demonstrations in Egypt this week. Britons in these four cities should avoid “public gatherings and disturbances”, it said. Holidaymakers due to travel should contact their airline or tour operator. See www.fco.gov.uk

Thomas Cook and Tui Travel, Britain’s largest tour operators, have cancelled all flights to Luxor due to depart up to and including February 16. Tui cancelled all flights to Aswan up to and including April 25. Customers due to travel on these flights can select alternative holiday destinations or receive a full refund. Bookings to Sharm el Sheikh, Hurghada, Marsa Alam and Taba remained unaffected. Thomas Cook and Tui this week announced that the unrest in Egypt had cost them, respectively, £20 million and £30 million.

Most smaller tour operators, including Red Sea Holidays, Longwood Holidays and Olympic Holidays, were continuing to offer trips to Red Sea resorts. Kuoni has cancelled all holidays to Egypt up to and including February 22. Customers can claim an alternative holiday or a refund.

Jet2 suspended all flights and holidays to Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada from March 1. The move follows last month’s decision to cancel its entire summer schedule to Tunisia. Affected passengers will receive a full refund and a discount on a future booking.”

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