Can’t read my p-p-p poker face, as Gaga would say. For good reason, there’s a very long and storied tradition of poker-playing in the White House — this game’s the ultimate presidential favorite, hands down. Barack Obama is known to play a mean game of Texas Hold ’Em. In fact, a former fellow Illinois state senator once told Time magazine: “If he runs his presidency the way he plays poker, I’ll sleep good at night.” Warren Harding’s advisors were known as “the poker cabinet” and our 29th president reportedly bet (and lost) an entire set of White House china in one hand.

Richard Nixon reputedly used hefty winnings from a long stint of poker games in the U.S. Navy during World War II to fund his first political campaign in 1946. Presidents George W. Bush, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Lyndon B. Johnson, Andrew Jackson, Ulysses S. Grant (left), Theodore Roosevelt and Harry Truman also all played regular hands at the White House.

For a suitably dignified poker set, we present The Eléments Coffret Poker Set by Hermès, top,  (300 poker chips plus two decks of silver-edged cards in a grey sycamore, cedar-lined box with calfskin top, $8,900 at Hermès stores or [800] 441-4488.) We also like the repp stripe boys club tie-in on the Jonathan Adler lacquer poker chip set at right ($135 at jonathanadler.com).

-- Ingrid Schmidt

Photos, from top:  Elements poker set, credit: Hermes; President Ulysses S. Grant, credit: Library of Congress; Adler poker chips, credit: Jonathan Adler

Sunday: Time in Office

A strained voice apologizes for its husky tone. While she was hosting a hair show, the mike went dead and guttural vociferation became the last resort. For Tabatha Coffey, improvising, keeping cool and mending split ends is the norm. A sore throat is a minor injury compared to some of the war wounds she’s dealt with.

 “Tabatha’s Salon Takeover,” her blunt, fast-paced show on Bravo, gives the reality star one week to pull hair-Houdinis when there’s anything but magic in the foundering businesses she remakes. “I’m well aware that some people refer to me as the Gordon Ramsay of hairdressing,” she says, referencing the British chef and his “Kitchen Nightmares” show. “Certainly, we’re both really passionate about what we do, we’re both direct and sometimes politically incorrect… But I couldn’t be him any more than he could be me.... I just want to help struggling salons turn themselves around.”

That is one of many insights also included in  Coffey’s new memoir, “It’s Not Really About the Hair.” (Another reason for the husky voice — she’s been on a book tour.) Through the chapters -- a mix of autobiography and tough-minded self-help -- an unusual life is revealed. Coffey — a hair stylist and salon owner who first came to national attention when she was voted “fan favorite” on the first season of “Shear Genius” — has been tight-lipped about all things personal until now. Be prepared for some shockers: late night pow-wows with drag queens and transvestites at the strip clubs her parents owned (she was 6), mingling with a notorious mob boss and the breast enhancement nightmare that almost killed her. This book is genuinely not all about the hair!

All the Rage: Your life has been filled with wonderful ups, but after reading your book, the amount of downs is staggering. How have you stayed so strong?
TC: I think it’s about a great support system. My mother was an incredible influence. Growing up in the environment I did at such a young age, I saw people who were true to themselves. Life deals some hard knocks and you have to hold your head up and walk through them. You can’t let anything bring you down. At such a young age this was instilled in me. Yes, some of the things later in life have been hard to hear and go through. But again, I hold my head up and know that as long as I’m true to myself and can go to bed at night happy with the choices I made, then really, the hell to everyone else.

All the Rage: Are you content with who you are today?
TC: I’m really content with where my life is now. That doesn’t mean I’m not always looking for a new incarnation or something different. I like to push myself and never rest on my laurels. I have a lot of drive and I’m very hard on myself.

All the Rage: You’re known as a tough cookie. How do you find the middle ground between being nasty and being constructively critical?
TC: Being nasty is just rude or hurtful. I think there’s a difference between being honest with someone and honest with yourself when trying to be helpful. Look, I can be a bull in a china shop ... but the sensibilities behind the things I’m saying, it’s never done in a way to hurt anybody. I’ve had enough hurtful things said to me to my face and behind my back that I don’t want to do that to anyone else.

All the Rage: How did you feel about your first reality show experience [on “Shear Genius”]?
TC: As I mention in the book, I was apprehensive about going forward with the show. The implications of leaving my business, staff, home.... I wasn’t sure if it was really worth it. It was a good experience because it was interesting. It’s so out of any comfort zone. It’s difficult to leave your life and go and live with 11 people that you don’t know, in surroundings you don’t know and have absolutely no privacy.

All the Rage: Speaking of no privacy, since you are a recognizable face and people see you as such a tough gal, do you get faced with confrontation off camera?
TC: I have to say I’m so overwhelmed with how supportive everyone is. People come up to me, since I am recognizable, and are very positive. They seem to respect my being tough.

All the Rage: What do you see as the current style/trend and attitude toward hair? And, since you’ve been styling for decades, are there any looks that you miss or wish never happened in the first place?
TC: What’s interesting with hair now is that we’re so celebrity-driven. It’s not realistic. They have extensions added or teams of people tweaking them. In a way, it’s killed trends a bit because in days when people used to cut their hair off, like Twiggy, they started a revolution. We don’t have those moments anymore. I’m happy people like Emma Watson and Michelle Williams cut their hair off. It sends a message that there are still some celebs taking risks. As for the past, I think we all look at some of the ’80s hair and you look at those moments and go, “What the hell were we thinking?”

All the Rage: Do you ever want to go up to women/men on the street and do a “Tabatha’s Street Takeover”?
TC: Yeah, of course! I’m a hairdresser, so there are times when I look at people and I think, “You could look so much better ... I wish I could help you.”

“It’s Not Really About The Hair: The Honest Truth About Life, Love, and the Business of Beauty,” by Tabatha Coffey with Richard Buskin, is available now at a variety of bookstores and via the Web. Publisher, It Books. Hardcover. $21.99.

-- Julie Neigher

Photo: The cover of Tabatha Coffey's new book. Credit: Harper Collins/It Books

Our Adam Tschorn spent the better part of the last month attending menswear designers' fall-winter 2011 runway shows in the world's fashion capitals. He saw some trends in Paris, Milan and New York that transcended political borders and look like what you're likely to find in stores later this year.

Get ready for chunky sweaters, bright colors, graphics and more. Get the whole scoop here.

-- Susan Denley 

Photo: From left, a look from the Rag & Bone fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fasion Week; the Duckie Brown fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fasion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times. 

Calvin Klein designer Franciso Costa has been having a great year. He dressed two celebs for the Golden Globes Awards (Emma Stone and Claire Danes), and they were among my picks for best dressed.

But those sleek and sexy, bold-colored dresses (Stone was in melon orange, and Danes in shocking pink) couldn't have been further from Costa's fall collection, which rested on gradations of black, white, stone and gray.

Costa was trying to convey sportiness by giving dresses and coats rounded and dropped shoulders to resemble a sweat shirt, according to the show notes. 

But the stiff volumes were awkward, not athletic.

Costa is noted for his fabrics. But the wool fleece and alpaca flannel used on voluminous coats and sheaths were so plush, at times they resembled plush toys. Soft and shaggy alpaca done as a pullover top, and worn with pressed wool cigarette pants, however, looked cozy and cool.

The best pieces were sleeveless shifts with metallic jacquard details. But I would have ditched the chunky white, crepe-soled shoes worn with them. Too Nurse Ratched.

--Booth Moore in New York

Top photos: From left, Emma Stone. Credit: Matt Sayles / Associated Press; Claire Danes. Credit: Jason Merritt / Getty Images.

Middle and bottom photos: Looks from the Calvin Klein fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.

Although he's certainly a fashion insider favorite, Derek Lam couldn't pass up an opportunity to work on a project that would bring him to a wider audience. So he's teamed up with EBay on a collection of 16 dresses, including a crisp denim shirtdress with a peplum in back (would be a summer staple for me), a dahlia-colored long cotton sundress, and a black cotton full-length gown. I also liked the white floor-length shirtdress with a peplum back. Can you imagine how many ways you could accessorize that?

Shoppers can vote on their favorites at dereklam.ebay.com, and the five winning styles (announced March 1) will be available to purchase on EBay in May. The price range is $125 to $295.

Although everyone is interested in the outcome of this experiment in crowd-sourced design, the resounding call from editors who saw the dresses was that EBay should produce them all.

Meanwhile, Lam's runway collection was a study in new fabric development, in response to the rising cost of cotton and other raw materials. He used silk woven with nylon, for example, and viscose with twill. And he wasn't the only one. There were a lot of these new fabrics in the collections in New York. Designers insist they are not cheap imitations, but the way of the future.

Lam's utilitarian styles still managed to look rich, and were lighter somehow, starting with the salt 'n' pepper-flannel and rayon drawstring twill skirt that opened the show, and the red stretch wool sleeveless coat (what a great option for warmer climes) with horn toggle closures.

An olive colored, blanket stripe cape coat was very on-trend, as was a silk crepe tuxedo jumpsuit, which was far more interesting than the gowns.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Top dress photos: Looks from the Derek Lam for Ebay collection. Credit: Derek Lam.

Middle and bottom photos: Looks from the Derek Lam fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.

Donna Karan's collection reminded me of Angelina Jolie in the film "The Tourist" (those costumes were designed by Colleen Atwood). Or Grace Kelly. (Karan made ample use of the chiffon headscarf.)

The palette was meant to evoke "the glow of pearls on skin," which meant a dozen shades of pale. And the shapes were simple and elegant -- a stretch skirt that hit below the knee, a flirty satin blouse with decorative folds on the bust, a felted wool jersey shift worn with long leather gloves.

Evening was about shimmery pale gowns, which truth be told, looked a little bit "I Dream Of Jeannie" with the head scarves.

Although there were certainly nice moments, this was an odd collection for Karan, more make-believe femme fatale than the real-world power woman for which the designer is known.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Photos: Looks from the Donna Karan fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

Sheryl Crow, Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Bosworth and Julianne Moore are but a few of the ultra-famous faces makeup artist Pati Dubroff works with on a regular basis.

And the newly anointed Clarins Celebrity Makeup Artist was only too happy to share a few of her experiences with the jet-set crowd at a press luncheon hosted by Clarins on Thursday afternoon at the Tower Bar.

The event was held to launch the spring skincare and cosmetics collections from the beauty brand, but the easy-going Dubroff captivated the crowd of mostly female beauty and style editors with stories of her career, including her move from New York to L.A. and a few more personal tidbits on some of her favorite clients.

For example, when Dubroff and her husband moved from New York to Los Angeles just over a decade ago, they moved into Crow's guesthouse — which turned out to be (maybe) haunted. "We were pretty eager to get out of there," said Dubroff, laughing. "It really is haunted."

The artist said she was unsure about moving from her beloved New York, but the very day her plane landed, "I booked the Hollywood Issue of Vanity Fair ... I thought, that's a good sign."

When doing Crow's makeup, "I always use honey, bronzy colors," said Dubroff. "That's what suits her best and what I like to do with that kind of skin."

On Kate Bosworth: "She's one of my favorite Barbie dolls. I've been working with her since she was really young, and she's the kind of girl who can really wear a trend," she said, citing, as proof, a recent bright-pink pout the actress wore. "Not everyone can pull this off."

Julianne Moore "is 50 years old, and look at her ... and there's no funny business with her, no injections or anything. She uses a lot of [facial] oil. That's kind of her big secret."

Among the new Clarins launches, which include a spate of new mineral-based suncare products, Dubroff praised, in particular, the Instant Smooth Line Correcting Concentrate, which is essentially a face primer, but in pen form to target specific areas such as crow's feet.

The makeup guru was mum about who she would be working with for next weekend's Oscars, but reminded us how intimate the celebrity-makeup artist relationship can be.

"They can choose whoever they want in their bathroom with them," she said. "Being a makeup artist is much more intimate than being a hairdresser. You're breathing the same air."

-- Emili Vesilind

Photo: Makeup artist Pati Dubroff. Credit: Clarins.

Not to be too cynical, but you have to wonder if the luxury houses that have recently shown Asian-inspired collections (Louis Vuitton) aren't really just trying to grab the attention of the new luxury market in that part of the world?

That's what came to mind with Ralph Lauren's latest, which was closer to the old Hollywood version of Asia ("The Lady from Shanghai") than anything new and relevant.

On the runway, there was everything you'd expect to see in a Far East fantasy -- silk pajama pants, embroidered velvet robes, jet beaded flapper dresses, Art Deco jade jewelry and red lacquer high heels.

Instead of surprises, what we got were cliches. Still, the well-heeled customers sitting front row seemed happy, circling and checking off looks on the show notes. And in the end, that's what counts.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Photos: Looks from the Ralph Lauren fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

On the heels of New York Fashion Week (which ended Thursday), the style world turns to London, where showings of designers' fall-winter 2011 women's collections are starting up. Among the expected highlights: On Monday afternoon, Burberry Prorsum will be the first of the London events to live-stream video of its runway show on giant screens in Piccadilly Circus. [Telegraph]

Retailers reportedly were impressed by the glamour on display in the New York shows. (We were too, here at All the Rage!) [WWD] (Subscription required.)

OPI's latest collection for spring is inspired by "Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides." The names of the six limited-edition shades evoke the adventures of Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow: the purple Planks a Lot, the pink Sparrow Me the Drama and the gray Skull & Glossbones, for instance. They'll go on sale in May. Honestly, I think I can get way more into this than the OPI-Justin Bieber collaboration, and that one was a bestseller! [StyleList]

Meanwhile, the Sephora by OPI collection inspired by "Glee" has arrived. [BellaSugar] 

South African double-amputee sprinter Oscar Pistorius is the new face of Thierry Mugler's A*Men men's scent. Pistorius, 25, is a triple world-record holder and runs on high-tech, futuristic-looking artificial legs. [WWD] 

And speaking of scents, Dita Von Teese is reportedly working with French perfumers to create one. What will it smell like? "Velvet sensuality with a dash of vulgarity," she said. Translation: Don't expect a fruity floral. [FabSugar UK]

Lady Gaga and MAC's charitable Viva Glam collaboration has two new products hitting shelves: the new buff-peach Gaga 2 Lipstick ($15) and Gaga 2 Lipglass ($15). [BellaSugar] 

"Project Runway's" Tim Gunn has another book to look forward to: "Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet," due on shelves this fall. [People] 

Vanessa Hudgens' hand-and-arm tattoos at New York Fashion Week were of the temporary, henna variety. As I keep, um, preaching: Temporary is the way to go with these things, just like hair color, eyeshadow, lipstick, nail polish ... [People] 

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow. Credit: Stephen Vaughan / Associated Press

 
 
John F. Kennedy is unquestionably the leading presidential trend-setter (no roll call vote required here). His effortless, high-class look had a fresh Hyannis Port nautical bent. JFK was often seen sporting Sperry Top-Siders on his sailboat, taking them to an iconic place in fashion history. (Men’s Authentic Original Suede Boat Shoe, shown, $85, and women’s Naples mocs, $98 at sperrytopsider.com).

And when it came to White House attire, Kennedy quickly vetoed the shapeless three-button men’s “sack suit” of the moment, with its unfitted jacket and wide-leg trouser, and popularized a streamlined two-button suit instead — further elevated by trim ties, custom-made Charvet shirts from Paris, and, of course, the strikingly elegant First Lady on his arm.

Inspired by Norman Mailer’s 1960 article on JFK for Esquire magazine, “Superman Comes to the Supermarket,” local fashion line Gentry’s  spring collection “embodies an Americana fantasy,” says designer Annie Imamura. The Kennedy tie set, top, handcrafted here in Los Angeles, pulls a posh look together fast. The wooden boxed set contains a print cotton necktie and pocket square, plus a silver-coated bronze collar clip, tie bar and tie pin. Last but not least, it includes a tie guide titled “The Handbook of Class and Distinction for the Modern Day Gentleman.” ($245 at House on Genesee: call 323-845-9821).

-- Ingrid Schmidt

Photos: (Top) The Gentry tie set. Credit: Courtesy of Gentry. (Middle) The new Sperry topsider. Credit: Courtesy of Sperry. (Bottom) President John F. Kennedy with his first lady, Jacqueline Kennedy. Credit: Associated Press / Photo Files

Saturday: Political Poker Faces

To complement the strong and somewhat athletic collection Phillip Lim sent down his fall 2011 runway, makeup artist Lisa Butler was inspired to pop model’s eyes with a wash of green color.

“Phillip had an image of a black swan in a green lake as part of his inspiration board -- and I wanted to mimic that idea of color surrounding something black, an unexpected element of surprise,” said Butler,  who used only Nars Cosmetics. “The skin was kept clean, with a muted lip, and then there were beautiful layers of green and blue on, and around the eyes." 

Butler barely touched skin with anything but The Concealer from Nars.

Focusing on the eyes, she applied Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliners in shades Rue de Rivoli and Abbey Road (which are new for fall 2011), Cap Ferrat Trio Eyeshadow (new for summer 2011), and Delphes Trio Eyeshadow (new for fall 2011).

Lips were colored with Nars Pago Pago Lipstick (new for fall 2011).

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos: Beauty looks from 3.1 Phillip Lim fall 2011. Credit: Nars

Actors, filmmakers and other invited guests converged on the Culver Plaza Theatre in Culver City on Wednesday for the opening of the Pan African Film Festival, which this year features 121 films from 31 nations. Actor Nate Parker of "The Great Debaters" hosted the first screening, "35 and Ticking," a film by radio personality Russ Parr.

Before joining the crowd, Parker said he credited his recent discovery of his Cameroonian ancestry as one reason he wished to participate in the festival. "This event celebrates African Americans and African connections," he said. "It’s an opportunity to promote films that matter socially, as well as entertain, and a way to counter and break down negative stereotypes of black people in films."

"I wouldn't miss this for the world," said Julie Dash, whose directing credits include "The Rosa Parks Story," adding, "I'm an avid, passionate filmmaker and fan." In fact, she said, she recently headed up the international jury for a film festival in Kerala, India.

Kiara Jones, who directed the short film "Men or Mice," praised the festival as a way to connect with audiences. "Everything is digital now so people can watch films on iPhones and laptops," she said. "The festival is important because we’re still making films that deserve to be projected on a big screen and seen by an audience. The audience reaction is part of the movie-going experience."

Also among guests were the opening film’s cast members Meagan Good, Luenell, Aaron D. Spears, Kym Whitley, Nicole Ari Parker, Tamala Jones, Kevin Hart, Clifton Powell, Keith Robinson and Dondre Whitfield. The festival continues through Feb. 23.

-- Ellen Olivier

Photo: Actress Tamala Jones and actor and comedian Kevin Hart. Credit: Hiltron Bailey