Experience Dhaka on the rickshaw
An elephant walks on a street, as a rickshaw driver transports a passenger. (AP)
Published: Dec 29, 2010 19:12 Updated: Dec 29, 2010 19:12
Travel, they say, broadens your mind. I am not sure if it really does, but it is certainly an experience in itself. If local delicacies in Dhaka play havoc with your delicate digestive system, seasoned travelers often will tell you that it is part of the experience and you must not moan and groan excessively about it.
Avoiding an assault on your digestive system while on holiday in Dhaka can be a problem. Ducking and diving to escape colorful food thrust upon you at every turn by enthusiastic relatives and friends, you will soon become worn out. Like urban guerrillas, they will always ambush you when you least expect it.
Just like the food, the public transport is also an experience; if it does not broaden your mind, it may succeed in congesting your lungs! Dhaka streets are full of carbon emitting buses and trucks and noisy three wheelers — locally known as CNGs. Dhaka’s phenomenal growth has, by any standard, outstripped the capacity of its transport system. Traffic jams are a part of daily life. Residents say vehicle-related pollution has soared to alarming heights and traffic snarls have tripled over the last few years. Perhaps to ease the situation, some of the many NGOs — non-profit non-government organizations — and the civil society ought to launch a “Save the Capital Campaign.”
People often suggest improvement in bus services, however, would that mean higher fares? On my last trip to Dhaka a few months ago, I heard someone mention that planners intended to deregulate bus fares and encourage entrepreneurs to engage in “healthy competition.” Whatever the result, these projects with prevailing “healthy competition” will definitely make more people poorer and some rich richer.
Leaving that aside, it is true that in Dhaka at any hour of the day and in many areas — from the city center to the tree-lined affluent residential districts — has crowds of people going somewhere — or just waiting for something to happen. One thing is sure: you will never feel lonely!
Although thousands do walk to work in the capital, Dhaka streets provide no real facility for pedestrians. The occasional pedestrian (zebra) crossing is more of a joke than a reality or solution, as it is ignored by motorists, rickshaw pullers, cyclists and the pedestrians themselves. These “designated crossings” are more of a suicide trap than anything else.
One form of transport, which is extremely popular, widely available, cheap, private and eco-friendly is a three-wheeled contraption called a rickshaw. The most interesting feature of this slow-moving pedal-powered transport is the bright and colorful “moving art” which decorates its side and back.
The rickshaws are decorated in vivid colors, from front to back. The medium is cutout plastic stuck or sewn on equally colorful backgrounds. Plastic tassels, flowers, mock carriage-lamps and bits of mirror pieces remind you of a Mogul palace.
The drawings range from romance to the wildest flights of fantasy. The scenes are common: airplanes, helicopters, gun-battles, masked men in sports cars, rosy cheeked well-endowed women, palatial mansions, rivers and green landscape.
Some also feature scenes from new and old Indian, Bangladeshi and Hollywood movies — Shahrukh Khan, Clint Eastwood, Tom Cruise and strangely even Disney characters and Sporty Spice can help you smile away the miles.
The slippery rickshaw seats are not meant to hold more than two and the two need to sit intimately. Still, it’s not unusual to see several college students on the rickshaw perched in some acrobatic formation, or people transporting goods such as cupboards or even larger objects that defy the laws of gravity.
Comic animals, subtle political caricatures and futuristic drawings are also in great demand. An Anglo-French Concorde (grounded years ago) taking off from Dhaka is popular on the rickshaw back panels. With two women prime ministers to date, the country’s women have come a long way from their traditional roles. It’s no surprise that rickshaw art also features speech-delivering and gun-toting females Lara Croft style.
The pride of the moving art galleries is the scrap metal placed between the rear wheels. This is where the rickshaw driver shows his real macho personality. Unfortunately, the fare-paying passenger has little control — it’s his money that is moving the show. These works of art by unknown and unsung artists are a far cry from those of the very famous.
We cannot deny that the rickshaw art, however modest it may be, reaches millions everyday — something only dreamt of by the likes of Picasso, Van Gogh, Turner or Monet.
While at the local level, the rickshaws provide a readily available, cheap means of transport and a way out of the congested Dhaka streets on a broader and international level. They are contributing to help bring down the city’s pollution levels, alleviate global warming and oil the wheels of the economy.
So, next time you’re in Dhaka, hail a rickshaw and enjoy being part of the moving art exhibition!
Comments
AREEF M. ABDUL
Jan 1, 2011 21:54
Report abusePlease mention your hotel name.
MAHE NEHA
Jan 1, 2011 22:12
Report abusei am from dhaka. what u wrote on this article was not pleasant. some points were true, however. but it was not nice of you to tease our country and city. and using words of sarcasm. many people from bangladesh would agree on the same thing. no one would want their country described in such a way. i believe that u should not have wrote this. RSVP
MAHELAQA SOBIA BUSHRA
Jan 1, 2011 22:13
Report abusewe were just enlightened by your article 'Experience Dhaka on the Rickshaw' and we are a pure bangladeshi family and felt that this article was unjust and obscene, it is true Dhaka is an over populated city with excess traffic, but to enhance this effect by scripting negative comments on such a well read paper is highly offensive to all bangladeshi people even those who feel ashamed by the poor conditions and are willing to change it, so we beg you to reconsider your words and thank you for your time.
MOON LOVER
Jan 3, 2011 01:11
Report abuseTransport in Dhaka has been and is a major problem. Political turmoil, strikes are quite common and cause problems to tourists as well as residents. One must try to improve the state of affairs rather than feel awkward about it. Delhi is famous for its delicacy but most tourists suffer Delhi bug. So is Karachi, Lahore or Bangkok. It's a common phenomenon and no wonder the most sold item in pharmacies and general stores in Dhaka is ORsaline - N (WHO & UNICEF approved). We in the airlines always carry a handful when travelling to Dhaka.
ARZ REJO
Jan 3, 2011 03:19
Report abuseDo u aware about this news, which is "Bangladesh tops Lonely Planets Best-Value Destinations 2011?
Also we are a host nation of International Cricket Council (ICC) world cup 2011.
Why did u attack to a nation? Arabnews is a very famous & prestigious, since long ago. This kind of publication is not appreciated.
SAJ
Jan 3, 2011 13:23
Report abuseTake it easy guys, Syed can say whatever he wants...........Dhaka will always be a great place to live in. It has its problems but so does New York, London etc.
DR SHARIF
Jan 3, 2011 19:41
Report abuseComments: I don't think the picture was taken in Dhaka. The Rikshaws in Dhaka uses hoods with a different shape. The author should name the street in Dhaka where he took this picture. If I am correct, the picture and the article speaks for itself.
MUKUL
Jan 4, 2011 16:12
Report abuseMUKUL
Jan 4, 2011 16:13
Report abuseABU JAAFAR
Jan 6, 2011 19:43
Report abuseWe all read newspapers and nothing is hidden from the well-informed. Strikes, corruption, transport congestion, adulteration, nepotism is common in all south Asian countries. But instead of ignoring and sweeping it under the carpet we must try to accept (first) the truth and (then) try to find a solution.
Blowing your own trumpet won't help.
SH
Jan 7, 2011 19:40
Report abuse