Business travel

Gulliver

  • Canadian aviation

    For Canadians, the grass is greener on the other side

    Nov 8th 2010, 15:23 by A.H. | TORONTO

    FOR the past few months Calvin Rovinescu, the boss of Air Canada, has been telling anyone who will listen that Canada's airport authorities and government must start treating the country's airlines better. Aviation policies and high airport taxes, he says, are driving Canadians to discount carriers flying from nearby American airports. 

    The latest American encroacher is Spirit Airlines, a discount airline that will soon start flying out of Plattsburgh, NY, about one hour's drive from Montreal, and Niagara Falls, NY, about 90 minutes from Toronto (not including time spent crossing the border). Return flights from Plattsburgh to Fort Lauderdale, a favourite destination for sun-starved Montrealers, can be had for as little as $135, including taxes, from January 2011. You can get even cheaper flights if you join Spirit’s $9 Fare Club, which costs $59.95 a year. The lowest fare for a similar flight on Air Canada is about C$430 ($430).

    Neither the minimal exchange-rate difference nor the extra distance flown have any great impact on the fares; but the heavy government subsidies that small American carriers receive, and the lower taxes they pay, certainly do. Plattsburgh airport estimates Canadians make up about 85% of its passengers each year and business is so good that Clinton County, which includes the airport, is looking at doubling the size of the facility. That success means Mr Rovinescu probably has a point. Then again, his airline does benefit from other aviation policies restricting choice in the Canadian market, such as those that keep foreign airlines off domestic routes and that have limited the expansion of carriers like Emirates.

  • Republican governors and high speed rail

    Train in vain?

    Nov 7th 2010, 22:58 by N.B. | WASHINGTON, DC

    CHRIS CHRISTIE, New Jersey's new-ish Republican governor, drew national attention last month for cancelling the partially federally funded ARC (Access to the Region's Core) tunnel project. The tunnel, which would have run under the Hudson river to Manhattan, would have eased train congestion in the current, century-old Hudson rail tunnel. Now the Garden State will lose the billions of dollars in federal money that were committed to the project; they'll be reallocated elsewhere.

    But Mr Christie isn't the only GOP chief executive cancelling federally funded high-speed rail projects. Last month, the New York Times' Michael Cooper pointed out that a number of Republican gubernatorial candidates were running against high-speed rail projects. Most of those candidates won. Scott Walker, the new governor in Wisconsin, John Kasich, the new governor in Ohio, and Rick Scott, the new governor in Florida, all criticised federally funded rail projects in their states. "Passenger rail is not in Ohio’s future," Mr Kasich told reporters shortly after winning Tuesday's election. "That train is dead." Mr Walker has also promised to fulfil his campaign pledge to kill the proposed rail project in his state.

    What is bad news for train supporters in Wisconsin, Ohio and New Jersey could be good news for commuters in California and the North-east. The $810m from Wisconsin, $400m from Ohio, and $3 billion from New Jersey will come back to Washington and be awarded to other states instead. California was one state where the anti-train candidate, Republican Meg Whitman, didn't win. Some of the money could end up there, to help launch the Golden State's Los Angeles-to-San Francisco high-speed rail dream.

    John Mica, a Republican from Florida who will run the House transportation committee starting in January, thinks that the North-east corridor is the best target for high-speed rail money. Newly elected (or re-elected) Democratic governors in Connecticut, Massachusetts, New York and Maryland would presumably be happy to take the money. It will be interesting to see whether the Obama administration can convince the lame-duck Democratic Congress to reassign the money—or whether the GOP-run House will try to cancel the spending entirely next year.

  • Obama's India trip

    $200 million a day?

    Nov 6th 2010, 18:17 by N.B. | WASHINGTON, DC

    SOME people just can't estimate travel costs. President Barack Obama is visiting Asia this week. Conservative bloggers and talk-radio hosts (Rush Limbaugh, Glenn Beck, and so on) and tea party darling Rep. Michele Bachmann (R-Minn.) claim that his trip is costing taxpayers a staggering $200 million a day. (Some also claim that the Navy is dispatching 34 ships and an aircraft carrier to support the mission. More on that later.) The White House says that's not true. Who's right? Google powers, activate! Here are some excerpts from a PolitiFact article debunking the claim:

    We think Bachmann and others have a responsibility to back up statistics they cite. And in this case, the backing appears to be one news story, relying on an anonymous state government official in India. People familiar with presidential travel say that estimate is way off, and they question how a government official in India would know anyway. And a report by the independent [Government Accountability Office] backs that up: A trip to India by Clinton, regarded at the time as perhaps the most expensive in history, was estimated to cost $50 million, or $10 million per day. That alone should cause someone to question the $200 million a day figure. In short, we don't see any evidence to back up this statistic. And we rate Bachmann's claim False.

    FactCheck.org weighs in, too:

    This story has spread rapidly among the president’s critics, but there is simply no evidence to support it. And common sense should lead anyone to doubt it. For example, the entire U.S. war effort in Afghanistan currently costs less than that — about $5.7 billion per month, according to the Congressional Research Service, or roughly $190 million per day. How could a peaceful state visit cost more than a war?

    And here's Pentagon spokesman Geoff Morrell on the "34 ships and an aircraft carrier" claim:

    Morrell told reporters he was making an exception to the practice of not discussing Presidential security details to shoot down the reports. "I will take the liberty this time of dismissing as absolutely absurd this notion that somehow we were deploying 10 percent of the Navy—some 34 ships and an aircraft carrier—in support of the president's trip to Asia," said Morrell at today's Pentagon briefing. "That's just comical. Nothing close to that is being done."

    It's sad that someone even has to debunk these ridiculous claims. Any reasonable person who heard the $200 million a day number should realise that it's off by at least an order of magnitude. Even Bill O'Reilly "knows the figure is nuts." But as New York magazine's perfect headline explains, "Republican Anger Over Cost of Obama’s Trip to India Will Not Be Stopped by Facts." Indeed.

    More: TPM DC | Washington Monthly | Atlanta Journal-Constitution | CBS News | Media Matters

  • Airport security

    What passengers really want

    Nov 5th 2010, 14:10 by A.B.

    ECONOMIST readers are less than thrilled with the state of airport security. With one day to go before our "Economist Asks" online debate closes, around three-quarters of respondents agree that security procedures are too stringent.

    alisdairhw pretty much sums up the majority position when he writes:

    As common sense and Bruce Schneier [a Gulliver favourite] will tell you, adding check after check each focusing on a very specific vulnerability is pointless, the bad guys can just adapt. Meanwhile money (and time is money too) is wasted that could be spent on more effective intelligence, trying to identify and neutralize threats before they get to an airport.

    This is a familiar theme, that if you want to prevent attacks, you need carefully acquired intelligence rather than confiscated nail scissors and shampoo. Indeed, security experts have long pointed out that the weak spots in aviation security are not the checks on passengers but the inadequate checks of cargo and the people who have airside access. The bombs discovered in the holds of two cargo planes earlier this week validate the first of these worries.

    Attendant Lord does make a counter argument, that you can't claim security is too stringent when it has helped keep the skies safe since 9/11:

    Jouris writes that security accomlishes nothing: "They make travel much more hassle, cost a lot of money (for minimally trained people to stand around mostly doing nothing—slowly), and accomplish nothing useful from a security standpoint."

    Really? Have I missed something—like a plane exploding?

    But, as smbanta points out, that success cannot necessarily be put down to checks of passengers:

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but haven't the attempted attacks after 9/11 been foiled after the terrorist got through security? The underpants bomber and the shoe bomber were both stopped on the plane, not exactly a win for the TSA.

    The other main bugbears to emerge from comments are the unnecessary theatricality of airport security, and the lack of a coherent approach from one airport to the next, and even within a particular airport. Rasmine explains the frustrations:

    Liquids are placed in plastic bags everywhere, but the laptop policy differs—in our out of the bag? Does the external hard drive count as a laptop or should it stay in the bag? How about the watch, belt, shoes? Is that a baggy sweater or a tight jacket? On or off? Why did I make the machine go beep in Amsterdam but not in Copenhagen, while wearing the same stuff? And how many times have I realised mid-flight that actually I have a tube of toothpaste at the bottom of the bag, or a screwdriver, craft knife that went undeclared and undetected?'

    Having spent years adding to the security theatre, governments are finally starting to question the approach. But don't expect change any time soon. It's a brave politician who demands the repeal of checks that were designed, whether we like them or not, to make us safer.

    Update, November 7th: our online poll has now closed, with 72% of voters agreeing that airport security is already too tight. If governments really do think all these ostentatious measures are necessary, they have done a poor job of convincing travellers.

  • Airbus A380

    Qantas grounds its A380s

    Nov 4th 2010, 17:21 by A.B.

    AN EXPLOSION on an Airbus A380 this morning has had a dramatic effect on the fortunes of three airlines. Qantas, Singapore Airlines and Lufthansa have all reacted to the significant failure of one of the Rolls-Royce Trent 900 engines on a Qantas flight from Singapore to Sydney this morning, which forced the plane to make an emergency return to Changi airport. Debris was found underneath the flight path on the Indonesian island of Batam

    Qantas immediately grounded all six of its A380s. Alan Joyce, the company's boss, said Qantas would not be using any of the planes until it is “comfortable” that it has “sufficient information” about what happened on the flight and that safety requirements have been met. And Singapore, which also uses Trent 900 engines on its 11 A380s, envisages delays following advice from Airbus and Rolls-Royce to run a series of precautionary tests before returning the giant planes to the skies. Lufthansa says it will also be running checks advised by Rolls-Royce, but it expects to conduct them overnight with no impact on the operation of its three planes.

    Air France-KLM and Emirates, the only other carriers currently flying A380s, have not reacted, as the engines on their craft are made jointly by General Electric and Pratt & Whitney.

    The Trent 900 is not used on any plane other than the A380. Shares in Rolls-Royce dropped on Thursday to as much as 5.5% below their overnight price.

  • Hotel bars

    The future of the hotel bar

    Nov 3rd 2010, 17:16 by A.B.

    GULLIVER has long believed that a hotel bar should be a place where guests can head for a drink, a snack, a read, and perhaps some conversation with a stranger—rather than somewhere for non-guests to guzzle over-priced cocktails. In what can only be a direct result of this massive campaign, Holiday Inn has announced plans to turn its bars into "social hubs". The chain has realised that its guests do not want to spend all evening alone with their gadgets and in fact have social skills they are happy to use. As the Wall Street Journal reports, in reference to a customer survey Holiday Inn completed a couple of years ago:

    ...the study found that frequent Holiday Inn guests—who are most often middle managers, route salespeople, entrepreneurs and government supervisors—want to be around other people rather than holed up in their rooms, Holiday Inn executives say.

    "These are more extroverted, charismatic people who like people," says Kevin Kowalski, senior vice president of global brand management for Holiday Inn's U.K.-based parent, InterContinental Hotels, or IHG. "They're not going to hang out in their rooms and watch TV. They're just social animals."

    So Holiday Inn plans to help them to be social. The new hub will bring together the bar, the lounge and the restaurant in one large friendly area. With mid-sized hotels increasingly unable to justify stand-alone restaurants, Holiday Inn has decided to make a virtue of the bar area and serve simple bar food for lunch and dinner, thus removing the need for a separate restaurant with separate staff. If I were spending 200 days a year on the road, I might think differently, but as an infrequent traveller who avoids hotel restaurants but enjoys hotel bars, this sounds sensible enough to me.

    However, the image (below) Holiday Inn provides to give an idea of what such a hub could look like has all the charm of a motorway service station and I sincerely hope the end results are considerably different. What do you reckon?

  • Airport security measures

    Discussing airport security

    Nov 2nd 2010, 12:05 by A.B.

    A COLLEAGUE writing on our business channel has asked the question: Are airport security measures already too stringent? At present the ayes have it, by a 72:28 margin. Please go and vote.

  • Emirates' results

    All smiles at Emirates

    Nov 1st 2010, 17:02 by A.B.

    EMIRATES, the state-owned airline of Dubai, has announced an impressive set of half-year results. Its profits increased from $205m in April-September 2009 to $925m this year (on revenues of $7.2 billion). And its latest passenger load factor of over 81% was a company record for the first half of the financial year. In particular, its premium-class load factor rose almost three percentage points: selling more high-margin tickets is one quick way to greater profitability.

    The company's drive to expand is relentless. In 2010 alone it has already ordered 32 of Airbus's massive A380s as well as 30 Boeing 777s. Other airlines may accuse Emirates of flooding the market with over-capacity, but Emirates is unsurprisingly bullish about the future. "Investing in the future and adapting our operations when required is an integral part of our corporate strategy," says Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed al-Maktoum, the company's chief executive. "This flexibility affords us the option of increasing passenger and cargo services on high demand sectors. By following these positive spikes in regional economies we have been able to maximize the use of our fleet to further stimulate revenue."

    The fear this instils in rivals is palpable. We’ve written recently about Canada's protectionist refusal to grant Emirates the landing rights it wanted in Toronto, and the likes of Lufthansa's Wolfgang Mayrhuber and British Airways' Willie Walsh have spoken about the impact Emirates, with its base on the pinch-point between Europe and Asia, is having on their business.

    Of particular concern to somebody like Mr Walsh is Emirates' push into regional airports. The A380 service it now operates from Manchester airport allows many Britons living in the north of the country to travel to Asia with a single stop in Dubai. Why then would they choose to go via Heathrow, with BA, instead?

  • The freight bomb plot

    Al Qaeda, again

    Oct 31st 2010, 18:41 by N.B. | WASHINGTON, DC

    AMERICAN officials now believe that the bombs discovered in the holds of two cargo planes on Friday were intended to bring the aircraft down, John Brennan, President Barack Obama's top counterterrorism adviser, told several Sunday-morning news shows. "At this point we agree with the British that it was designed to be detonated in flight," Brennan said on CBS's "Face the Nation." That implies the bombs, which were reportedly contained inside ink jet printer cartridges, could be detonated remotely—probably via cellular phone. 

    The packages were both addressed to Jewish synagogues in Chicago. But it now seems that the planes that were carrying the bombs could have also been targets. The New York Times has a bit more on what we know so far:

    American officials said their operating assumption was that the two bombs were the work of Ibrahim Hassan al-Asiri, Al Qaeda in Yemen’s top bomb-maker, whose previous devices have been more rudimentary, and also unsuccessful. Mr. Asiri is believed to have built both the bomb sewn into the underwear of the young Nigerian who tried to blow up a trans-Atlantic flight last Dec. 25, and the suicide bomb that nearly killed Saudi Arabia’s intelligence chief, Mohammed bin Nayef, months earlier. (In the second episode, American officials say, Mr. Asiri hid the explosives in a body cavity of his brother, the suicide bomber.)

    A Yemeni engineering student was arrested on Saturday and is thought to be the person who delivered the packages to the offices of the cargo companies UPS and FedEx. According to what the Yemeni president told reporters, the young woman was arrested based on tips from American and United Arab Emirates officials.

    The cargo bomb plot, which was apparently foiled at least in part because of a tip from the Saudis, is thought to have been carried out with the approval of Anwar Al-Awlaki, an American-born Muslim cleric who is allegedly the head of "Al Qaeda in the Arabian Peninsula" and reportedly in hiding in Yemen. The American government has reportedly been trying to kill Mr Al-Awlaki, a US citizen, since early this year. The targeting of Mr Al-Awlaki for death is the subject of a lawsuit brought in federal court by the American Civil Liberties Union and the Center for Constitutional Rights on behalf of his father, Nouri Al-Awlaki. The plaintiffs in that case aim to obtain an injunction blocking the government from killing Mr Al-Awlaki without charge or trial, but their case is likely to be dismissed on procedural grounds.

    This story is obviously still developing. We'll update you when we know more. In the meantime, however, you can be sure that the US will be seriously considering amping up its semi-secret military campaign in Yemen. And you can be almost certain the US military and the CIA will redoubling their search for Mr Al-Awlaki.

  • American airport security

    Meet "The Resistance"

    Oct 30th 2010, 21:49 by N.B. | WASHINGTON, DC

    HERE'S a shocker: America's Transportation Security Agency is using the threat of up-close-and-personal pat downs to force passengers to go through the controversial new "backscatter" full body scanners that have already been installed at many US airports. The Atlantic's Jeffrey Goldberg, last seen sneaking his "Osama bin Laden, Hero of Islam" t-shirt and box cutters through airport security, has written an absolutely brilliant (and vulgar) story about his encounter with the TSA's new tactics. You really have to read the whole thing for yourself, but if you're not convinced to click through just yet, here's a choice excerpt:

    "We have to search up your thighs and between your legs until we meet resistance," he explained. "Resistance?" I asked. "Your testicles," he explained. "That's funny," I said, "because 'The Resistance' is the actual name I've given to my testicles."

    Here in Washington, that's what we call "too much information." But misery loves company, and now you, like I, know a bit too much about the contents of a prominent journalist's trousers. (A friend points out on Twitter that if Mr Goldberg is telling the truth, counterinsurgency expert Andrew Exum, a.k.a. "Abu Muqawama," is probably feeling fairly uncomfortable right about now.)*

    Mr Goldberg is using his bawdy sense of humour to make three serious points. First, even though the new pat-downs are invasive (indeed, they border on groping), they're still not enough to stop a determined terrorist from smuggling weapons onto a plane. There's no cavity search involved, and Mr Goldberg knows from his days as an Israeli prison guard that prisoners are quite willing to hide things where even the boldest TSA officers won't look. Second, the "effectiveness of pat-downs doesn't matter very much," since the whole point seems to be encouraging passengers to avoid pat downs and go through the full-body scanners instead. I'll let him remind us of the third point:

    By the time terrorist plotters make it to the airport, it is, generally speaking, too late to stop them. Plots must be broken up long before the plotters reach the target. If they are smart enough to make it to the airport without arrest, it is almost axiomatically true that they will be smart enough to figure out a way to bring weapons aboard a plane.

    These are all good points. I'd also remind readers that you shouldn't let the invasiveness of a pat-down deter you from declining a full-body scan if you really don't want to go through the machine. If you're lucky, you'll get TSA officers who are just as friendly (and good-humoured) as the people Mr Goldberg encountered. If you're unlucky, well, your request could meet resistance.

    *Folks who don't get the joke should brush up on their Arabic.

  • Rising APD

    Going ape about APD

    Oct 29th 2010, 17:35 by A.B.

    BRITISH AIRWAYS' chairman, Martin Broughton, has been in the news of late for his comments about airport security. Now it's the turn of the company's chief executive, Willie Walsh. He took the opportunity of the announcement of BA's half-yearly pre-tax profit of £158m ($250m), its first profit for two years, to go on the attack over the increase in Air Passenger Duty (APD).

    APD is a tax charged on every passenger, except transfer passengers, flying out of Britain on a plane seating more than 20. The exact amount depends on the distance (from London) of the capital city of the destination country, and the class of travel. The rates rose sharply in November 2009 and are set to rise again on Monday. For example, APD for a trip in economy class to a Band-B destination (with a capital city between 2,000 and 4,000 miles from London), will soar from £45 to £60. For business-class travel to a Band-D destination (capital city over 6,000 miles away), it becomes £170.

    The airlines, unsurprisingly, are worried that their customers will be scared off. "This is not about rich people travelling to long-haul destinations," said Mr Walsh. "These are charges that are particularly damaging to families that have saved up for their annual holiday."

    His concern may also be rather more personal. BA could lose business to rivals if the APD increases persuade visitors to Europe to base themselves outside Britain. On this note, I was struck by a comment added to a post I wrote this time last year:

    We visit from Canada a couple of times a year, not on business, but to visit family. We have always flown into London on BA, in business class, and made a side trip to Brussels to visit friends. I will now fly into Brussels and make a side trip to London. At over $600 for APD and other taxes, fuel surcharges etc. flying into the UK would be silly. I suppose this represents about a $20,000 loss for BA and the UK economy.

    It is easy to overstate the horrors of the APD rise, though. A spokesman for Virgin Atlantic suggested that "the annual family holiday will become unaffordable for many." Hmm. APD for a Band-A destination, which includes all of Europe, will rise to £12, up from £11 in the past year and £5 back in the good old days before February 2007. For a family of four that means shelling out an extra £28—ugly, sure, but not enough to render a holiday unaffordable for a group wealthy enough to holiday abroad.

    Will the rise put off business travellers? Again, it's hard to see a company deciding not to do business in Britain because of these few extra pounds, though it will doubtless add a fair whack to British companies' travel budgets. I think I'll open this one to the floor. Is anyone reconsidering travel/business plans because of the demands of Britain's tax man?

  • Biofuels

    The future's biofuel

    Oct 28th 2010, 19:05 by A.B.

    A PIECE in this week's Economist offers a positive take on the future of biofuels. Of particular interest to this blog is the potential for the adoption of such fuels in aircraft engines, due mainly to work on a new generation of biofuels made of hydrocarbons, rather than ethanol.

    These will, they say, be “drop-in” fuels, any quantity of which can be put into the appropriate fuel tanks and pipelines with no fuss whatsoever. For that reason alone, they are worth more than ethanol. Appropriately designed drop-in fuels can substitute for diesel and aviation fuel, which ethanol cannot.

    The article concludes that the widespread electrification of cars would spell disaster for the ethanol market, but drop-in fuels should continue to find plenty of buyers in civil aviation. Read it all.

  • Ryanair joke

    British Airways' joke offering

    Oct 27th 2010, 16:20 by A.B.

    MARTIN BROUGHTON'S been eating too much red meat. As if being rude about the American approach to airport security wasn't enough aggression for one speech, the chairman of British Airways also told a joke about Michael O'Leary, the boss of Ryanair.

    In Mr Broughton’s telling, Mr O’Leary goes into a pub, asks for a pint of Guinness and is told by the barman that it will cost him £1.

    “Just £1?” asks Mr O’Leary.

    “Well, I’m a great fan of yours,” says the barman.

    So Mr O’Leary hands over £1 and the barman goes to pour the pint, when he stops and asks: “Would you be wanting a glass with that?”

    Ho ho. (We can't, by the way, credit Mr Broughton with that joke, which has been doing the rounds since at least April.)

  • Aviation security

    Where the Americans get it wrong

    Oct 27th 2010, 14:33 by A.B.

    IT'S good to see aviation-security issues getting the billing they deserve. “BA attacks US airport security demands” screams the headline of today’s Financial Times, in reference to criticism by Martin Broughton, British Airways’ chairman. Speaking at the Airport Operators Association conference yesterday, Mr Broughton lambasted America for requiring more stringent security checks of international US-bound flights than it does of domestic services.

    He said that Britain's attitude should be, "We'll only do things which we consider to be essential and that you Americans also consider essential", and that there was "no need to kowtow to the Americans every time they wanted something done".

    He also took aim at a couple of aspects of modern-day security theatre, saying passengers should not be required to remove their shoes when passing through security—a requirement introduced after Richard Reid attempted to blow up a plane in 2001 with explosives hidden in his footwear—and querying inconsistent approaches to laptop computers. "We all know there’s quite a number of elements in the security programme which are completely redundant," he commented, "and they should be sorted out."

    That sounds sensible enough. And it's also eminently sensible of British Airways (at a time when it's still embroiled in a row with cabin staff) to reiterate its blamelessness vis-à-vis security procedures, while offering a view that chimes with those of its customers. In a recent survey cited in another FT article, 65% of passengers named security queues as their biggest airport irritation.

  • Bad trips

    Stuck in the middle

    Oct 26th 2010, 20:01 by A.B.

    BUSINESS TRAVELLER has a decent journey-from-hell post from a traveller who missed a flight with Lufthansa, found the last seat on a British Airways service instead, and then had to sit between two drunkards who were flying together.

    I was now the meat in a bad petrol-station sandwich. No problem – I had my iPod and newspaper so could disappear into my own little world for the 90-minute journey. Some hope. Before we had even taken off they started talking across me. By now I was sure this was a wind-up and that I was being filmed, but no one came forward to grant me an escape.

    I don't follow the logic of the conclusion, that this experience taught the writer the virtues of waiting patiently, rather than seeking an earlier departure. After all, the drunkards could just as easily have been travelling on a later Lufthansa flight. But it's well worth a read.

  • Travels in North Korea

    Korea break

    Oct 25th 2010, 17:08 by J.M. | PYONGYANG

    AS THE Tupolev flies from China into North Korean airspace, an announcement in muffled English invites passengers to look down at the Yalu river, which divides the two countries. North Korea's Air Koryo does not usually fly at night, otherwise the view could be spectacular: a blaze of urban light on the Chinese side, and darkness on North Korea's. In fact, Air Koryo hardly does any flying at all. So rare is the experience that one journalist takes a sick bag as a souvenir for a friend who collects such items. The airline used to venture as far as Moscow and eastern Europe. But these days its maximum range is China and eastern Russia. Air Koryo's scheduled flights have not suffered any fatal crashes, but that does not stop people worrying about a tiny carrier so isolated from scrutiny. Visitors to North Korea, if they have any choice, vie to get seats on Air China, the only other airline with services to Pyongyang.

    The last time I took an Air Koryo flight was when leaving North Korea after a visit to Pyongyang to cover an historic concert there by the New York Philharmonic in February 2008. (Fifteen months after that rare effusion of goodwill between North Korea and America, North Korea detonated another nuclear device.) I noted then a palpable jitteriness among passengers on the ageing Ilyushin. This time, at least, it is a new Tu-204 100B, acquired only last year, and the weather is good.

    At Pyongyang airport, ours is the only jet in action. A few others, all Air Koryo, are parked near the terminal. Its familiar portrait of North Korea's late leader Kim Il Sung, the eternal president, gazes down on an expanse of empty concrete. In the terminal, a customs inspector pays no attention to my laptop or camera. His only interest is in my mobile telephone, which like those of all other passengers is taken from me for the duration of my visit. The purpose of this, many believe, is to stop mobile phones with foreign SIM cards from finding their way into the hands of North Koreans who might use them in border areas to communicate with the outside world. Our SIM cards will not work on North Korea's own network, most of whose subscribers can only make calls within North Korea. Foreign visitors are allocated official guides, who will help make sure the phone is returned on our departure.

    Rarely will the Western traveller have any choice of hotel. We are told on the way into Pyongyang that we are being billeted at the Koryo Hotel, which is a relief. At least it is not the Yanggakdo Hotel, where the New York Philharmonic was put up. The Yanggakdo is much loved by North Korean officials because it is on an islet in the Taedong river where foreigners can easily be kept under guard (and amuse themselves in a foreigners-only casino in the basement). The Koryo Hotel offers much readier access to Pyongyang proper.

    Remarkably (and inexplicably) on this visit, no attempt is made to stop us leaving the hotel without our guides. This affords a rare opportunity to wander the streets unescorted. It takes several attempts to find a restaurant that will even take an unguided foreigner. Eventually one does, and it offers an excellent meal of kimchi with pork, rice and local Taedong Beer for €3 ($4.2) for two (foreigners not being allowed to use local currency, and euros being ideologically preferable to dollars). At least there are restaurants doing business. At the beginning of the year, amid the turmoil following North Korea's sudden revaluation of its currency, they closed for several weeks. Late at night, however, the city appears as empty and lifeless as I remember it on visits in the late 1980s and early 1990s. A strip of restaurants outside the hotel remains brightly lit, apparently just for show. Sidestreets are pitch dark. In the square in front of Pyongyang's railway station, close to the hotel, groups of children play cards as they wait for a train.

    Back in the twin-towered Koryo Hotel, official guides, foreign journalists and a sprinkling of other guests invited in for the ruling party's 65th anniversary festivities provide a little custom, at its bars and restaurants. An employee says the 45th-floor revolving restaurant is closed. There is another on the other tower, but a "Lonely Planet" guidebook says this is always closed because it affords too good a view of a guarded compound where senior officials live.

    At least the internet is available, for journalists. A room is set aside for our exclusive use, with a few dozen broadband lines to which we can attach our laptops for a hefty fee. Unlike in neighbouring China, where politically sensitive sites are blocked, the internet here appears completely open. Ordinary citizens, however, cannot get access to the internet so there is little chance of this having any adverse political impact. A young North Korean deployed to look after the internet room looks curiously over my shoulder as I browse The Economist's website. He seems surprised at seeing a photograph on it of North Korea's leaders attending a parade the previous day in Pyongyang. "So quick," he says.

    Officials do not like to let foreign travellers linger longer than is necessary. Though some members of our group have week-long visas, we are politely escorted to the airport after four days. There is, however, a hiccup. A fellow journalist gets on the plane having neglected to retrieve her new iPhone. The plane door is re-opened. Three cars full of officials pull up. She hands over her receipt and, after a 20-minute wait, the phone is brought to her. Take-off slots are not at a premium in Pyongyang.

  • Hotel renovations

    Gussying up hotels

    Oct 24th 2010, 15:15 by N.B. | WASHINGTON, DC

    EARLIER this month, the New York Times offered readers a bizarrely mistitled article on hotel renovations. "Hotels Use Downturn to Spruce Up," exclaimed the headline on a story that explained that American hotel companies are "generally not taking on many major redesigns or other big projects."

    The hospitality industry spent some $5.5 billion renovating existing hotels in 2008, but that was down to $3.3 billion in 2009 and could be as low as $2.7 billion this year, according to an expert consulted by the Times. So the "Sprucing Up" story, it seems, had to focus on the exceptions. And since Gulliver readers deserve only the best and most recently renovated hotels, I figured I'd share some of the Times' findings with you here.

    Perhaps the most important renovations occurring during the past few years were those of Holiday Inns worldwide. The chain plans to complete a "systemwide, top-to-bottom" upgrade of all of its hotels by the end of the year. Starwood, another large chain, is redesigning guest rooms in some of its Sheraton and Westin hotels. There are also renovations happening at more high-end hotels: the Bel-Air in Los Angeles; the Savoy and the Four Seasons at Park Lane in London; and the Fairmont Peace Hotel and Waldorf Astoria in Shanghai.

    Have any readers stayed at the renovated Savoy or Fairmont Peace Hotel? What did you think of the changes? (Or the changes to the Holiday Inns, for that matter?) Let us know in the comments.

  • What your pilot won't tell you

    Secrets of the skies

    Oct 23rd 2010, 16:40 by N.B. | WASHINGTON, DC

    READER'S DIGEST has compiled a list of 50 "Secrets Your Pilot Won't Tell You." Here are a few of my favourites. First, the good news:

    • "Some FAA rules don’t make sense to us either. Like the fact that when we’re at 39,000 feet going 400 miles an hour, in a plane that could hit turbulence at any minute, [flight attendants] can walk around and serve hot coffee and Chateaubriand. But when we’re on the ground on a flat piece of asphalt going five to ten miles an hour, they’ve got to be buckled in like they’re at NASCAR." -Jack Stephan, US Airways captain based in Annapolis, Maryland, who has been flying since 1984
    • "Pilots find it perplexing that so many people are afraid of turbulence. It’s all but impossible for turbulence to cause a crash. We avoid turbulence not because we’re afraid the wing is going to fall off but because it’s annoying." -Patrick Smith, commercial pilot and author, askthepilot.com

    Now, the bad:

    • "There is no safest place to sit. In one accident, the people in the back are dead; in the next, it’s the people up front." -John Nance, aviation safety analyst and retired airline captain, Seattle
    • "The truth is, we’re exhausted. Our work rules allow us to be on duty 16 hours without a break. That’s many more hours than a truck driver. And unlike a truck driver, who can pull over at the next rest stop, we can’t pull over at the next cloud." -Captain at a major airline

    And now, the funny:

    • "One time I rode in the jump seat of a 747 freighter, which carries cargo, not passengers. As soon as the doors closed, the first officer went in back and put on a bathrobe and slippers. No kidding. He said, 'I'll be damned if I’m going to wear a tie for a bunch of boxes.'" -Tech pilot at a regional airline, Texas
    • What a pilot will never say: "Well, folks, the visibility out there is zero." What they’ll say instead: "There’s some fog in the Washington area."

    There are a lot more of these over at the Reader's Digest site. They also have "13 Things Your Flight Attendant Won't Tell You." Check them both out—and if you have any more secrets of the skies, let us know in the comments.

    (via the Consumerist)

  • Friday gobbets

    Croc on a plane

    Oct 22nd 2010, 17:40 by A.B.

    TWO gobbets to share:

    • NINETEEN people died when a plane crashed in Congo in late August. One survived and the extraordinary tale told to accident investigators has now been made public. Apparently it was all the fault of a crocodile, which had been brought on board in a bag. It escaped during the journey, causing panic among the flight attendants and passengers. They rushed towards the cockpit, destabilising the plane and sending it into a fatal spin. The spin was not fatal to the crocodile, though, which was found in the wreckage by rescuers—and then hacked up with a machete. News.com.au has the story.

    • This Atlantic piece on terrorists, and why they're actually not so scary, is tremendous and should be compulsory reading for anyone involved in security theatre.

    To be sure, some terrorists are steely and skilled—people like Mohamed Atta, the careful and well-trained head of the 9/11 hijackers. Their leaders and recruiters can be lethally subtle and manipulative, but the quiet truth is that many of the deluded foot soldiers are foolish and untrained, perhaps even untrainable. Acknowledging this fact could help us tailor our counterterrorism priorities—and publicizing it could help us erode the powerful images of strength and piety that terrorists rely on for recruiting and funding.

  • Hotels

    RevPAR rising

    Oct 22nd 2010, 16:45 by A.B.

    A SHORT piece in this week's Economist looked at changes to revenue per available room in hotels around the world:

    During the financial crisis, hotels fell on hard times as both business and holiday travel contracted. But in the first nine months of 2010 hoteliers had a much better time of things. Their revenue per available room increased, compared with the same period in 2009, in all but a handful of markets. In Asia, where the pace of growth has been blistering, hotels too are thriving. Revenues in Shanghai are up by more than 60%, helped by a 36% increase in occupancy rates. Northern European cities such as Berlin and London are part of the rising tide. But even places with weaker recoveries, such as Tokyo and Madrid, have enjoyed a slight rise in revenues. Although room rates there are stagnant, occupancy levels are rising.

  • Rickshaws in Patna

    Three wheels good

    Oct 21st 2010, 18:05 by A.R. | PATNA

    BIHAR, India’s poorest state, has never been an easy place to do business. But with its GDP said to be growing by a merry 11% each year, more outsiders are eager to try. A few years ago there were one or two daily flights from Delhi; now there are seven or eight, most of them pretty full. Yet not much is moving fast on the ground. Step off your plane in Patna, the state capital with over a million residents, and you are lucky to find a taxi to the city. At Patna's plushest hotel (perhaps an overstatement) renting a set of wheels proved impossible on some days this week (on another, more fortuitously, your correspondent rode around in a splendid white Ambassador car, a 1940s-style beast of a vehicle usually favoured by elderly officials).

    A few horse-drawn carts are still evident on the streets, along with throngs of bicycle rickshaws with tinkling bells, but the latter seem only to ply set routes. Auto-rickshaws (auto-tuks, the equivalent of the tuk-tuks of Thailand) honk endlessly and spew blue exhaust across the city, but it’s tricky to persuade a driver to change his route, at least if you are not fluent in Hindi. So all praise to the latest innovation to reach Patna: the metered auto-tuk. You can book from a central office, let the meter tick along quietly and explain to your driver to cut across town. Then sit back and marvel as he drives through the crowds, the exhaust and the swirling traffic and takes you directly where you want to go. A modern marvel.

  • Travel trends

    Looking into the future of travel

    Oct 20th 2010, 17:30 by A.B.

    THE Travel Gold Rush is a survey about future travel trends put together by Amadeus, a company that provides technology to the travel industry, and Oxford Economics, a forecasting consultancy. Among its main predictions is that both inbound and outbound Asian travel will continue to increase their market share in the next decade. So in 2020 Asia-bound travellers will account for over 24% of “global arrivals”—five percentage points more than in 2005. And the proportion of all trips abroad done by Asian travellers is due to rise from 22% to 27% over the same period.

    No great surprises there. More interesting, I thought, was the reporting on airlines’ ancillary revenues. These are the optional costs for meals, priority boarding and the like, that are bringing in over $1 billion a year for some carriers. If maximised, these revenues could supposedly amount to 35% of an airline’s annual income. At the moment Allegiant is the carrier deriving the greatest proportion of revenue from ancillary items: 29%. Second-place Spirit manages almost 24%. One new way to increase ancillary revenues, the report suggests, is for airlines to think harder about working with third-party service-providers such as hotels, car-rental companies and insurers.

    But the more general point is that in future carriers will need to find ways to offer customers a “broader travel experience”:

    These involve thinking about travel as an end to end process (akin to how many passengers view it) and could include areas such as better management of the ground interface (seamless travel), paying more attention to passenger preferences (e.g. which airports are preferable from a passenger perspective) providing passenger support in trips to less familiar destinations, and much better integration of smartphones and other related technologies.

    Do have a quick look at the report, but it you want something shorter, there’s a rather handsome accompanying infographic. This provides an at-a-glance indication of which parts of the world can expect to see increases in inbound and outbound travel, and in their share of visitors' and residents' travel spending.

  • Eurostar's new trains

    Ils ne passeront pas

    Oct 19th 2010, 21:16 by D.S. | London

    ON DECEMBER 7th 1835 the Adler, a steam engine built by a British father and son, George and Robert Stephenson, puffed its way between Nürnberg and Fürth in Bavaria, marking the birth of the German railway system. This October 19th, a century and three-quarters later, the Germans repaid the compliment. Deutsche Bahn’s sleek high-speed train, the ICE 3, lay at London’s St Pancras station, the first German train to pass through the Channel Tunnel.

    By happenstance the event coincided with a royal row brewing between the French and, it seems, almost everyone else keen on liberalising rail travel through the tunnel.

    Earlier this month Eurostar, the operator of passenger trains through the tunnel, named Siemens, a German firm which makes ICE 3s (together with Bombadier of Canada), as its preferred bidder to build 10 new high-speed trains. A rival, Alstom of France, which has supplied all Eurostar trains to date, cried foul. It claims the tender was invalid because it made assumptions about changes to safety regulations while they are still under discussion. Dominique Bussereau, the French secretary of state for transport, backed up the Alstom claim, saying the tender process was “null and void”. Alstom may file an injunction with the High Court in London in the next few days, say company sources. It would need to do this before the contract with Siemens is signed on October 25th, they say.

    The safety issue centres on whether trains of recent design, which have power sources distributed along their length, are as safe as those with power sources concentrated at their ends. The Intergovernmental Commission (IGC), which governs safety in the tunnel, considered the question last year and concluded that trains with distributed power would be acceptable as long as they were equipped to isolate a fire anywhere along their length. The IGC asked Eurotunnel, which operates the tunnel, to work out detailed rules to take this into account. Eurotunnel expects to draw up the rules by the end of the year.

    Alstom says that it raised concerns months ago that inviting bids for trains with distributed power before these rules are specified was jumping the gun. Alstom nevertheless submitted a bid in a tendering process which it now argues is illegal. Eurostar is not prepared to change its decision, which company sources say is “the right one for our customers.” The state-owned French railway SNCF, which owns 55% of Eurostar, has not commented.

    Deutsche Bahn is not involved in the row but its ICE trains work on distributed power. Before getting to St Pancras, its train was subjected to a rigorous safety exercise in the tunnel. Hundreds of people were evacuated from its two 200-metre sections in the space of 20 minutes, to take refuge in a central service tunnel. The maximum time required for evacuation is 90 minutes. Last December, when an Alstom Eurostar train had to be evacuated because of engine failure, it took 35 minutes.

    Since January this year, operating rail services has been liberalised throughout the European Union. Deutsche Bahn plans to be operating high-speed services between London and Cologne in four hours, and Frankfurt in five. Channel Tunnel safety experts sense that Alstom’s concerns are more about commerce than safety.

  • Aeroplanes without ailerons

    Flapless wonders

    Oct 19th 2010, 15:54 by A.B.

    EVER wondered about flapless aircraft? Of course you have. My colleague on the Babbage blog explains why aircraft without ailerons might be a good thing—and how they are being turned into reality.

  • Heathrow airport

    Nor any drop to drink

    Oct 19th 2010, 10:24 by T.W.

    NEXT time you are delayed at Heathrow airport’s Terminal 5, here’s a fun game to help you while away the hours. It’s called “Find the drinking fountain”, and it’s guaranteed to keep you busy during the longest of delays.

    Since security rules were tightened in 2006, passengers have been forbidden to take more than a thimble-full of water through security. This has been a pain for the public, but a gift to the shops on the other side of the x-ray machines, waiting to sell bottles of water to replace the ones people have had to leave behind at security.

    The solution for passengers who don’t want to pay this water-tax is to bring an empty bottle and fill it up from a tap on the other side. But at Terminal 5, Britain’s most advanced departure point, the owners, BAA, have developed an exciting treasure-hunt to make passengers’ journeys even more enjoyable. I don’t want to spoil the game for potential players, but I can reveal that the fountains lie around corners, tucked into alcoves and advertised with a tiny little sign, about the size of a folded-up copy of The Economist. Players who try to cheat by asking members of staff for directions are penalised with misinformation.

    It must be that after spending £4.3 billion ($6.8 billion) on the new terminal, BAA just didn’t have enough money to pay for many drinking fountains, or for signs pointing them out. It would surely be paranoid to think that the hidden fountains have anything to do with preserving the roaring trade in mineral water done by the Heathrow's tenants.

    Whatever the reason, it has annoyed people more important than me. Last year questions were asked in the House of Lords about the availability of drinking water in airports. The answer, according to the minister at the time, is that there is no obligation for airports to provide drinking water, even though passengers are obliged to surrender their own. The minister, Andrew Adonis, added that “nevertheless, most airports do provide free water.” Does that mean that some don’t provide it at all? Or merely that Lord Adonis wasn’t very good at the Heathrow treasure hunt?

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