The Old City - the historical core - the three square miles of original Hyderabad around the majestic Charminar, from which the city grew outwards, is a treasure trove of sights, smells, traditions and tastes. If you are planning to visit the city, I suggest, you go on a walking tour of this ancient part if for nothing else but to get a better view of the place.

The area around the famous Charminar constitutes the heart of the historic city of Hyderabad. This part of the city encompasses reminiscences of the past reflected in popular Hyderabadi eateries, ornaments and attar.

Most of the tourists usually move out in a hurry after a visit to Charminar and other nearby monuments. In their rush for time, what they often fail to notice is beyond the amazing monuments. There are a lot more other intriguing features that lie hidden, unseen to all but the local eyes, in the labyrinth of lanes and by lanes near Charminar.

Recently, having decided to move beyond the role of the curious tourist, I went on a day's self-guided walking tour through some of the Old City's bustling ancient bazaars and alleys, which usually tourists choose not to wander into (reason: they are always over-crowded).

My journey took me through some old buildings, crowded cafes, workshops, palaces and traditions, which continue to breathe life into the centuries old history and culture of this place. Standing tall and firm like a solid rock right in the middle of the chaotic stream of traffic, Charminar is an amazing structure, dwarfi ng everything else around it.

The ancient clock on the Charminar shows 8 o'clock. The businesses are yet to open. But the Farasha Cafe right in the shadow of the minarets where I sit sipping my morning Chai (cup of tea), is already crowded with the 'Chai-holics'. There is no buzz, except the occasional gong of the bells from the Hindu temple under the Charminar. Farasha is one of the oldest eating joints in the Old City that serves the best Irani-Chai. Hyderabad is as famous for its Irani Chai as for its Biryani (rice and meat dish cooked with traditional spices).

The muezzin's call blares out from the nearby Mecca Masjid. I walk into its sprawling courtyard. The Old City has a sizeable number of Muslims. There are dozens of mosques, but people give immense importance to Mecca Masjid. They believe that by offering prayers at this mosque one gets the same spiritual benefits as from the pilgrimage to Ka'ba at Mecca. The Old City is a gourmet's paradise.

Some of the eateries here are landmarks by themselves.

The Pista House on Shah-ali-Banda road, for example, is an excellent spot for some lip-smacking burgers and Haleem (a dish prepared with meat,wheat and spices). For Biryani which the average Hyderabadi gorges on daily without batting an eyelid, Hotel Shadab and Madina are excellent spots, not very far from the Charminar. Dining at Farasha in the backdrop of Charminar during Ramzan is an experience in itself.

Some people say that the Qutub Shahis built a secret subterranean tunnel connecting Golconda Fort with the Charminar and that it was used by the Sultan to meet his lover Bhagamati. While the romance of this story is still left to our imagination, almost every time a new foundation is dug in the areas around the Charminar, workmen regularly unearth bits of colourful bangles and beads which adorned some unknown beauty a thousand years ago. It is no wonder, because the area sits on its ancient tradition of the bangle industry.

The Old City's venerable street, Lad Bazaar is home to traditional Hyderabadi bangles. This place has maintained its original character, image and ambience for over 400 years now. Quaint shop fronts with time-worn wooden-shuttered upper stories line the street.

Its architecture and glitz of commodities like bangles, bridal trousseau, handicrafts and bric-a-brac of woman's finery, which are sold here are the biggest attractions of this bazaar. Look here for some Nawabi collection of antiques and local handicrafts, they are worth taking home as mementos.

A short walk from Lad Bazaar leads you to the famous palace of the Nizam, known as Khilwat, or Chowmohalla Palace, now restored fully for public viewing. This palace gives one an insight into the extravagance of a bygone era. And before you call it a day, try out some local non-synthetic attar (perfumes) of the Old City.

The attar sellers: "Shah Perfumes and Gems" near Machli-Kaman, attract passersby with their mysterious looking bottles of heavy perfumes. The shop owner, Syed Abdul Khader claims that he has a rare collection of attars, which include the costliest varieties namely, Ambar and Armani - each priced around Rs. 2000 (1LD= Rs 37)per 10 gram.

"Even a small daub on your wrist reeks for hours", he says, proudly.

The last stop is at Gulzar House, the famous shopping zone where one can buy the best Hyderabad pearls and gold jewellery.

The author is a noted freelance writer/lensman.