Libyan Dress (Part 1)

By Huda Biuk

Coming out of the Eid al-Fitr holiday, Libya's values of hospitality, community and the honoring of elders have been revived into society. Facets of tradition rise to the surface on special occasions like Eid, including the wearing of traditional dress. For men, the Eid holidays are one of few chances to wear Tripoli's tradition on their backs.

Traditional male dress ranges between the country's rural and urban areas. Focusing on Tripoli, the type of traditional outfit that is most worn is simply called Libsa Arabiya, or 'Arabic outfit'. It is comprised of several parts including: draw string pants, a long chemise, and the vest commonly known as the faramla.

However, like most things, traditional wear has evolved overtime. This seems to be a contradicting statement, but tradition does not often remain unchanged. Like the evolving fashions of traditional female dress (which I will highlight next week), men also have adapted their garb for practical reasons, and adopted new fashion trends with foreign influences.

The three piece outfit I described was not always considered a full outfit. Not too long ago, the zboon, hurka, and tageya or tasseled cap, were also needed to create the full traditional outfit in Tripoli. "Now the three pieces are enough," says on elder in Tripoli.

Foreign influences can be spotted in the male fashion industry. These include inspirations and sometimes direct imitations from the Gulf and other North African countries.

The Saudi Arabian thob, or long ankle-length robe is often worn by men in Libya to replace the long sureeya, or chemise. And, white is not the only color worn. Colors ranging from the lightest to the darkest of shades are bought to match the silk stripes of the faramla that men may or may not choose to wear over the thob.

From North Africa, Moroccan robes are sometimes worn by Tripoli's younger generations. Sometimes fully striped, the most obvious detail that distinguishes a Moroccan outfit is the hood attached to the back of the collar.

The small modifications made to what is now known as the traditional Libyan outfit is a mixed product of tradition and newer foreign influences. No doubt, an authentic traditional outfit can be recognized from a mile away; and this is due in part by its value in the market, which can reach over hundreds of dinars.

Re-wearing the same traditional outfit is not discouraged like with casual wear in Tripoli. This goes for traditional female dress, as well. The different pieces of the traditional outfit can and are often bought separately. That way buying a new vest, for example, can mean creating a new look.

Though there are foreign influences to the modernized traditional male dress, there are limits. You will not see glimpses of younger personalities portrayed in an individual’s choice of shoes, for example. A rule of thumb when dressing traditionally is to wear sandals. After all, it is the desert. Sandals are the Libyan formal.

Though traditional male dress can be spotted on a street in Tripoli any day of the year, it is saved for special social occasions and is worn by all generations, even baby boys. On Eid holidays, and the moulid, or the anniversary of the birthday of the Prophet Muhammed (PBUH), close to the whole of the Libyan male population dress traditionally.

Other special occasions where traditional wear can be expected include weddings, and even Friday afternoon prayers. Bottom line, it is a tradition that isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Striped, embroidered vests will continue to fill prayer rows in mosques; and will remind us, again and again, how rich Libyan tradition is.

To share with the bifocal, contact the writer directly at hbiuk@tripolipost.net

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