Syrians after crossing the border into Jordan, Mafraq, Feb. 18, 2013. Mohammad Abu Ghosh/Xinhua/ZUMAPRESS.
April 22, 2013
Ali
Hamouda has a game he likes to play at the petrol station in northern Jordan
where he now works pumping gas.
“That car
that just came in belongs to my wife’s cousin,” Hamouda says, indicating a
small red Fiat. “He is so fat that the car leans to one side when he drives it
and the wheel always turns to one side.”
The blue
Honda is owned by a neighbor who is so frugal that he used his children’s
paints to cover rust stains on his car rather then spring for new bodywork. The
white SUV belongs to a rich man in town that everyone knows has crooked
business dealings in Lebanon. And the rattling grey Buick, that belongs to the
mayor’s nosy wife.
Each car
is a memory of the life Hamouda has lost. In Daraa, his hometown, the southern
city where the uprising against the Bashar Al-Assad regime began in March 2011,
he had a black Cadillac that he says he kept in pristine condition. When he
drove it through Daraa’s streets, he would roll down the windows and chat with
his neighbors. In the spring, he would park the car under the blooming jasmine
bush in his front yard so when he drove to work in the morning, the sweet scent
lingered.
“I
remember these things about our lives in Daraa,” he says. “I remember my
peaceful drive in the morning, before the streets were crowded with traffic. I
remember my city when it smelled of jasmine, still and beautiful.”
A year ago,
when Hamouda fled Daraa with his wife and four children, he took care to cover
the Cadillac and ask a neighbor to keep an eye on it until he returned. The
street outside his home had become a war zone. “I like to think it is there,
waiting for me,” he says. “One day my family will go back, and it will be
there.”
Hamouda
is relatively fortunate. He is one of thousands of urban refugees
in Jordan who left the sprawling refugee camps for a cramped, one bedroom
apartment he shares with his wife and three daughters. In the villages along
Jordan’s northern border with Syria, entire neighborhoods are now inhabited by refugees like the Hamouda family, who eke out a living at the gas stations
and produce stalls, biding time and trying to create a sense of a home away from
home.
“Hope Has Really Been Broken”
Even as
thousands more Syrian refugees arrive in Jordan, Lebanon and Turkey each day,
the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) has warned that it will soon
be out of money to cope for the vast needs of the community. In June, the money
will run dry for the camps in Jordan, and United Nations officials estimate that a few
months later, Turkey and Lebanon will follow.
Part of
the problem is that UNHCR has only received 29 percent of the money it was
promised by donor nations, with many countries across the Arab world failing to
fulfill the amounts they had originally pledged. But UN officials said a larger
problem is that with fighting in Syria still raging, no one can say how long
the refugees will need assistance. "The needs are rising
exponentially and we are broke," said Marixie Mercado, a UNICEF
spokeswoman in an interview with Al Jazeera in April.
Marin
Kajdomca, the UN official in charge of the Zaatari refugee camp in northern
Jordan, says that during one peak of the crisis some ten thousand refugees
poured into the camp in one week. “There was discontent among people,” he
recalls. “There was a situation where it was difficult to provide distribution,
it was difficult to provide services for them.” At one stage a punishing winter
storm hit the region, sending temperatures to freezing lows and dumping a
blanket of snow on the Zaatari camp.
“It is trauma on top of trauma,”
says Waheeba Walid, whose four-month-old grandson died during the storm. She
explains that the baby had a pre-existing lung condition that was aggravated by
the cold and dampness in the camp. “We ran away, out of Syria, to live, not to
die,” she said.
To date,
UNHCR has registered 1.3 million Syrian refugees in neighboring countries, a rise of one million people
since this same time last year, when the UN said that there were 300,000 Syrian
refugees in Jordan, Lebanon and Turkey.
"We
want to ring the alarm bell. We are at a breaking point," said Panos
Moumtzis, the Regional Refugee Coordinator for the Syria at UNHCR. He said that
even as projects see the number of refugees continuing to rise, aid money has
nearly run out. He said that despite appeals for $1 billion the UN has only
received $300 million.
Now,
human rights workers and activists helping the refugees are being forced to
make impossible choices. Do they cut immunization programs for the children or
distribute less foodstuffs to adults? With anywhere between 7,000 to 8,000 new
refugees arriving each day, the decisions they make have critical
ramifications.
Human rights groups have already warned that the sexual exploitation of women and
child labor has begun. Fathers, unable to care for their children, have pushed
daughters as young as twelve and thirteen into marriages with wealthy Jordanian
or Egyptian husbands that they hope will provide them with the basic staples of
life—food and shelter.
Last
month, one human rights activist, who shuttles between Lebanon and Jordan, said
that she had seen a "change in mood" among the refugees.
"There
is the beginning of this feeling of desperation," she said, asking to be
quoted anonymously because the international organization she works for had not
given her permission to be interviewed. “Families are beginning to consider
things they would never consider before—like selling their daughters
or even moving the family back to Syria. You see that people's hope has really
been broken." The numbers, she said, swell by the day. "When it hit
one million a lot of people were shocked. Then the next day 14,000 people
became refugees in one day. That should have been more shocking, but nobody
took notice," she said.
“The Clothes on Our Backs”
“Visit
nearly any petrol station in Jordan or southern Turkey, and you will find a
Syrian refugee,” says Yasmin Khaled. The 26-year-old comes from a wealthy
family in Damascus, and has relatives in Beirut. She sits at a trendy café in
downtown Amman and sips a green tea chai. “I know I’m one of the lucky ones,”
she says. “I don’t really think of myself as a refugee.”
Khaled’s
family has enough money stashed in bank accounts outside Syria that they can
afford to rent an apartment in Amman, in addition to the home they purchased
years ago in Lebanon. Khaled says she felt guilt when she saw photos of Syrian
children playing in frozen mud in the Zaatari camp.
“I guess
most Syrians didn’t save for a rainy day,” she says. “Nobody really thought
that a Syrian person would be forced to beg for charity. It’s not our national
character.” Khaled dreamily described the Syria of her youth as “a rock” and a
“safe haven.”
Khaled’s
father, Ibrahim, recalls days long ago that were also troubling for Syrians—the
armed conflicts with Israel in 1967 and 1973, the civil war in Lebanon, and the
U.S.-led invasion of Iraq for example. “She’s too young to remember the wars,
but I remember them a bit and I heard the stories from my father and my
grandfather,” he says. “It made me appreciate that I was raising my children in
a time of peace.”
Syrians
watched the wars raging around them with pity, Ibrahim Khaled says. He
remembers desperate Lebanese refugees crossing the border into Syria, and
Iraqis who arrived clasping plastic bags full of foodstuffs and clothes. “I
thought to myself, ‘poor them,’ and helped some of them find jobs in a factory
owned by my brother-in-law,” he says. “I would see them sometimes and they
looked so empty, so shocked, and I thought to myself, ‘Well it is silly they
did not prepare.’”
So when
the day came that the protests turned violent, Ibrahim Khaled transferred money
into foreign bank accounts and kept a close eye on the news. “I was always a
pessimist,” he recalls. “Everyone thought I was crazy, they said the war would
never come to Damascus.” In July 2012, after a car bomb in Syria’s capital
killed four top security officials, including Al-Assad’s own brother-in-law,
Ibrahim Khaled decided it was time to move his family abroad.
“I didn’t
want to wait for the day when we would be bombed out of our homes and would
leave with just the clothes on our backs,” he says. “I’ve already seen what
that looks like.”
“We Don’t Know What to Believe”
Other
Syrian refugees left only when they had no other choice, driven by the near
certainty of violence and the prospect of death at home. Some say they can’t
even remember the moment they became refugees, that it just happened step by
step. Salma Fayouk had just finished her university studies and was facing
pressure to marry her long-time boyfriend when fighting broke out in her
hometown of Aleppo in northern Syria. First her family escaped their apartment
on the northern outskirts of the city for a safer neighborhood toward the
center. But, after a nearby building was bombed, they decided that the city,
too, was unsafe and moved to a relative’s home in the countryside.
One day,
Fayouk’s brother went missing. A few weeks later, the family was told that he
had been killed by regime forces. Food became scarce and Fayouk and her sisters
started to hear stories of rape and abduction. So the family moved a third
time, crossing the border and settling in a refugee camp near the Turkish city
of Hatay. Fayouk says that it was only there that she finally understood what
had happened to her.
“I became
a refugee without even realizing it, and sometimes it is hard to think of
myself this way,” she says, speaking in a park near the camp. “Just a few years
ago, I had a very secure life.”
Her
parents talk of returning to Syria, but Fayouk and her sisters say they are
trying to forge new lives for themselves. One sister is studying Turkish and
another is considering an arranged marriage with a wealthy Jordanian
relative. The family’s oldest son has started doing menial labor on farms
around Hatay, but they are afraid he will be caught by Turkish authorities and
punished. “We are running out of money but we aren’t allowed to work,”
says Farouk. “It’s not fair and we really thought we would be back home by
now.”
When she
thinks back to her friends from university, she suddenly realizes how much has
changed in two short years. Some are dead, and many more, she says, are
missing. Men she once saw as nerdy engineering students have joined katibas, or fighting units, and have
posted photos of themselves brandishing AK-47s on Facebook. She knows of
families who have sought refuge in countries as far away as Libya and Britain,
and others who are internally displaced in Syria, living with distant family in
the countryside in villages too small to be of strategic importance to the war
being fought around them.
“We are
always waiting, watching the news and reading in the newspaper, to find out
what is happening back home,” she says. “Some women here, their husbands are
fighting in Syria and they bring back news that soon Al-Assad will be dead. But
it’s been a long time that they’ve been saying this and we don’t know what to
believe.”
“What Syria?”
Along
Turkey’s border with Syria, not far from the Hatay camp, Syrian men in the
makeshift uniforms of various rebel groups can be seen making their way to and
from the border. It’s a constant reminder of the ongoing fighting, in a war
that has already gone on far longer than anyone here expected.
Abu
Mohammed used to be a history professor at a university in Aleppo. He asks to
be identified by a pseudonym because much of his family remains in Syria, and
one of his sons is fighting on the side of the rebels. Most days, Abu Mohammed
sits at a small café in Hatay, and sips tea in front of a television tuned to
Al Jazeera. “Everyone talks about going back to Syria when the war is over and
Al-Assad is dead,” he says. “I want to ask them, ‘What Syria?’ There is no
Syria left.”
Abu
Mohammed explains that because of his reading of history, he knows what a civil
war can do to a country. And because he is a Syrian, he knows how truly fragile
his country is now. “Maybe we did, for a while, ignore divisions and exist
as one country,” he says. “But those days are over. Today everyone wants to
know: Are you Sunni? Are you Alawite? Are you pro-regime? Or against?”
Recently,
he read an article that predicted the Balkanization of Syria, arguing that the
country would be divided into warring factions for decades to come. “There
is no word for someone who is a refugee but who has no country to go back to,”
Abu Mohammed says. “Or at least, I don’t know that word. If there is, we should
start using it for Syrians.”
Sheera Frenkel reports from Jerusalem for McClatchy Newspapers, the Times of London, and National Public Radio. In 2010 she won the British
Press Award for Young Journalist of the Year. On Twitter: @sheeraf.