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Regions
Dhofar
The Governorate of Dhofar is located in the south of the Sultanate.
The coastal strip stretches for 560km, and the region has an area of
around 1,500km2, of which only 130km2 are affected by the monsoon
rains. The coast of Dhofar is a haven for the fishing industries and
sardines are one of the most prolific fish in the catch as well as
lobsters, abalone and prawns. Agriculture is a main industry in
Dhofar and crops such as coconuts, bananas, sweet potatoes (yams),
lemons, papaya, wheat and corn are grown. Traditional crafts include
blacksmithing, goldsmithing, embroidery and needlework.
Dhofar is an area rich in history. In 1992, an American satellite
discovered the remains of a city submerged beneath the sands of the
Omani section of the Rub' al Khali (the Empty Quarter). Initial
speculation indicated that this was the legendary city, Iram Dhat al
Emad, distinguished by its imposing columns and high walls, which is
mentioned in the Quran. The site has been subject to much
exploration and study by archaeologists who have dated pottery and
glass vessels excavated from the area at around 100BC. It has also
been ascertained that the city sank under the sands due to what has
been deemed a 'light earthquake'. This could be the 'clamour' which
is referred to in the Quran: '..a great clamour was heard in the sky
and Shaddad and all who accompanied him were struck down' - and the
city sank below the ground.
The Dhofar region is subdivided into 9 wilayats. Its climate is
dramatically different to the rest of Oman due to the effects of the
monsoon rains (khareef) which arrive during the summer months,
creating humidity and moderate temperatures of around 300C. As a
consequence, the area becomes lush and green, with waterfalls and
rivers feeding the surrounding pastures. The mountain ridge, which
receives the most rain, stretches for 400km from east to west.
During the khareef, springs gush forth and provide plentiful water
supplies for much of the rest of the year. The fresh greenery is
ideal for cattle grazing and livestock rearing is an important
occupation in the area.
The wilayat of Salalah, which is the administrative capital of
Dhofar, lies on the Arabian Sea, around 1040km from Muscat in the
north. The city has been subject to many historical and
archaeological studies over the years and evidence has been found in
the form of writing, inscriptions and signs indicating that a number
of different civilizations have succeeded each other here.
The Manjawi civilization dwelt in the district of Belid between the
12th and 16th centuries. At this time, the area was renowned for its
thriving import and export activities, the main exports being
Arabian horses and frankincense. It is thought that Ahmed bin
Mohammed al Haboudhi rebuilt the city and renamed it Al Mansourah
(The Victorious) and this status was reaffirmed in the writings of
explorers Marco Polo and Ibn Batuta. There are three archaeological
sites in Al Mughsil with traces of ancient walls, tombs and mosques.
Not all the sights in Salalah belong to the past, however. This
wilayat contains stunning beaches and steep, mountainous landscapes.
The rocky outcrops on the beach in Mughsil contain many blowholes
which burst dramatically during high tide. Salalah is developing as
a tourist resort and is attracting a number of international hotel
chains such as Holiday Inn and Hilton. Port Salalah, completed in
1998, is destined to become one of the world's most important
container terminals. Its construction has provided jobs for many
Omanis.
The wilayat of Thumrayt is located at the juncture of all the
principal roads linking Dhofar to the rest of the Sultanate. In the
past, it has been a forwarding post on the overland caravan routes
to the ports on the Arabian Sea. It is believed that the lost city
of Ubar is in Shisr in Thumrayt. Ubar was the mythical city
mentioned in the 'Tales of the Arabian Nights'. Much of Dhofar's
frankincense was grown in this area and the ancient people would
warn outsiders of dangers such as 'flying snakes' in order to keep
them away and thus protect their livelihood. In Mashid, there are
many fresh water springs, which are noted for their depth and which
meander through beautiful scenery. Traditional caravan routes are
still maintained in Thumrayt and the local inhabitants harvest the
frankincense each April. Crafts include spinning and weaving wool,
tent-making and palm-frond weaving.
Wilayat Taqah falls between Salalah and Marbat on the Dhofari
coastline. Taqah was once a prosperous port and has been a
significant trading centre of the ancient world. Some of the most
famous remains in this area are found at Samhuran, an ancient city
which is thought to date back to 3000BC. Old though these remains
may be, inscriptions are still visible in the walls and columns of
the citadel. Frankincense was the main export, which found its way
to Queen Hatshepsut of Egypt in 1500BC. A drawing of a Pharaonic
ship docked at Samhuran is still displayed in a temple in the Valley
of the Kings in Luxor. The Queen of Sheba also dispatched a boatload
of frankincense from this port as a gift to Prophet Solomon (son of
David). In 1952, the 'American Foundation for the Study of Man'
discovered the remains of stone sculptures and carvings, pre-Islamic
tombs and a citadel which is thought to be part of the ancient city
of Taqah. Modern day Taqah has silver-white beaches, fresh water
springs, caves and grottos which make the district popular with
visitors.
The wilayat of Marbat is on the central strip of the Dhofari coast
and its name is believed to have come from marabat al khail (lit.
place where horses are tied up). Marbat was famed for breeding
Arabian horses which were exported, along with frankincense, to
India and East Africa. It has a spectacular landscape, from its
coastline to the impressive peaks of Jebel Samhan, the highest of
which stands at 4754ft.
The Citadel of Marbat was built in the traditional Omani style of
defensive architecture, which is atypical of many of the structures
built in the area. Agriculture is a seasonal activity here, mainly
confined to the Tawi A'teer region. Beans, mangoes, cucumbers and
corn are the main crops. Marbat is rich in natural springs, caves
and grottos.
One of the most popular crafts is making majmars, the Dhofari-style
incense burners, which are decorated in yellow, green, blue and red
geometric designs.
Sadah, 135 km from Salalah, was a trading port for frankincense
export. Sadah has an impressive fort and the sub-district of Hasek
has the remains of an ancient city as well as a mausoleum to the
Prophet Saleh bin Hud on the slopes of Jebel Nous. There are long
stretches of clean white beaches, dramatic cliffs and scenery. The
mountains contain caves and grottos and the spring called Ain Laja
is the source water for the city's drinking supply. Honey production
is popular in this wilayat, as well as livestock breeding and
herding. Diving for oysters is still well practised.
Wilayat Rakhyut is in the south east corner of Dhofar, neighbouring
Salalah. In ancient times, Rakhyut was a seaport station on the sea
caravan routes to India and East Africa, exporting frankincense and
other local products. The area is mountainous and has a convoluted
coastline distinguished by inlets and bays. Pearl diving is still
carried out by the locals who seek the precious gem from the
oysters.
Dhalkut is located on the far west of Dhofar and has enjoyed its own
merchant sea trade with the ports of the Gulf and Yemen, exporting
leather, honey, figs and frankincense. This wilayat has many springs
which burst forth from the wadis of the Jebel al Qamar (Mountains of
the Moon). The caves and grottos in the area have provided shepherds
and flocks with safe refuge from adverse weather conditions for
centuries. Certain caves, such as Mashloul and Asbir contain ancient
wall inscriptions.
The wilayat of Muqshin is adjacent to the kingdom of Saudi Arabia in
the west. It is famed for its date plantations and abundant ground
water supplies and in bygone days, was an important caravan centre
of the Rub al' Khali as well as a base camp for the desert's
explorers. Archaeological exploration has revealed tools and
inscriptions dating back to the Stone Age. Its inhabitants mainly
breed camels or cultivate date plantations.
The wilayat of Shalim and the Hallaniyat Islands lies in the east of
Dhofar, some 310km from Salalah. Past exports from this area
included dried fish, charcoal and frankincense which were traded
with Africa and India. There are a number of historical sites in
this district, many of them pre-Islamic. The Hallaniyat Islands are
a safe haven for migratory birds and the marine life from the
surrounding waters. Many turtles breed on the Hallaniyat Islands and
there are large dolphin populations. In Rahab, on the mainland,
there is an experimental farm which is cultivating certain grasses
and edible fruits and vegetables. If the project is successful,
barren stretches of land in Oman may be exploited agriculturally.
Frankincense
The Dhofari people started large scale exploitation of frankincense
8000 years ago. Dhofari frankincense has played a very important
role in commercial enterprises between the Arab regions and the
Asian and African civilisations. Ancient Sumerian inscriptions refer
to bokhur (incense) and it is thought that this incense travelled by
ship from Oman to Sumer, Bahrain and parts of Iraq.
At the beginning of April each year, labourers harvest the crop of
frankincense by making incisions in the olibanum (frankincense)
tree. A sticky, milky white resin congeals on the trunk of the tree,
which is harvested 14 days later. A second harvest will then be
gathered, but this is generally of a lower standard to the initial
batch. A third harvest releases a 'prime quality' frankincense which
is yellow. One tree can yield between 10 - 20 kg of frankincense per
season. The annual harvest of Dhofari frankincense can be as much as
7,000 tonnes which is worth around RO 3 million. Incense is used at
Arabic wedding and birth ceremonies, as well as by the Vatican and
Roman Catholic churches across the world.
Frankincense is not only used as incense, it also has certain
medical properties. The people of Dhofar will add a few lumps of
olibanum to their drinking water, which they believe acts as a
diuretic and cleanses the kidneys. It is used to staunch internal
and external bleeding, to aid in fat elimination and to cure
forgetfulness. Aromatherapists use frankincense oil as an aid to
depression and in Salalah, it is customary to waft the incense
around the home before the household awakes in order to bring
harmony to the inhabitants through the day. Frankincense also
provides the added bonus of being an insect repellent.
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