The global culinary world is cut-throat and merciless. There is so much talent in kitchens across the world that it takes a truckload of talent, a sprinkling of luck and perhaps even some divine intervention to make a mark. However, despite the competitive environment, there have been certain Indian chefs who have managed to carve their place in culinary history. One such name is New York’s famous Chef Floyd Cardoz (of Tabla fame). A ‘Bombay’ boy, Chef Cardoz moved oversees eons back. What sets him apart though, is the fact that one can not say that he did not look back. After establishing perhaps one of the most popular Indian restaurants in New York and perhaps even USA, he did look back and thought of what he could bring to India. As a consequence, Mumbai’s culinary scene saw the welcome addition of The Bombay Canteen, which has just turned one.
Chef Cardoz takes his food very seriously. And the only thing he takes even more seriously than the finished product are the ingredients that go into it. His philosophy centres around using local ingredients and making the ingredient the king. He is not particularly a fan of molecular gastronomy. It is all about flavours here, bold and unapologetic. A word with Chef Floyd Cardoz on his recent visit to India, on the eve of The Bombay Canteen’s first birthday:
1. How did cooking happen to you? Did you always want to be a chef?
Not at all. I actually wanted to be a biochemist.. maybe even a marine biologist. If all else failed, my last resort was to be a tea plantation manager. But while I was doing my bachelors at St.Xaviers College, I read a book titled ‘The Hotel’ by Arthur Hailey. That coupled with my intrigue about my grandfather’s hospitality career, I liked that this world was all about taking care of people. I finished what I was doing and decided to study at Institute of Hotel Management in Mumbai (also the alma mater of Chef Vicky Ratnani whom we interviewed earlier this month). During the course, I realised that I loved cooking. I loved to eat, would go to the kitchen and experiment by cooking different meals for my dad or children. My dad loved Goan food at night and that is what I would make him.
2. Of all your experience abroad, whom were you most influenced by?
Danny Meyer, my partner at Tabla influenced the way I thought greatly. He helped me introspect and decide the way I wanted to be in a kitchen. Chefs were often terrible to their teams in the kitchens and the general vibe was very stressful. I aimed to change that, to make it a more collaborative space.
3. What prompted you to look back at India again?
I left in 1998 and had a lot of success in USA but there was always this nagging feeling of wanting to do something back in India. When I left, being a chef wasn’t a big thing. I had this emptiness that needed to be filled. I spoke to many people but somehow it never happened as I wanted to open a restaurant with like-minded people, people who had a point of view on food. Come along Sameer who worked with me in New York. I saw Sameer was this great guy who wanted to do something similar. He mentioned his friend Yash whom he met at Cornell and I suggested to them that maybe we should open a restaurant together back home. Sameer came back to India and Yash came back from Singapore. We had many ideas of what it was going to be. Some ideas differed but we always agreed on the core ideology. In terms of expertise, I retain my interest in the food served here, Sameer is great at connecting with people and ensuring a memorable dining experience and Yash excels on processes and supply chain.
4. Why Mumbai?
I grew up in Bombay and it shall always be home. In fact, coming home was the best part of doing this restaurant. Mumbai is such a mix of different cultures and people, forever receptive to new ideas and concepts.
5. One year down the line, has The Bombay Canteen evolved into what you imagined it to be?
Yes. Did we believe it would be successful? I always did. I had the conviction that we could make a difference, because we had the single-minded dedication. We started off wanting to be affordable and approachable. Also, we wanted to be a restaurant that evolves and it is. In the past one year, our menu has changed 4 times, even the look of the restaurant has evolved. Has it reached it’s potential? I don’t think so. We want to make a statement that we belong and want to contribute to the city’s food scene. We’re here to stay.
6. What is your one favourite dish at Bombay Canteen? And per se?
That’s like asking which of your children is your favourite! (After much prodding) I’d say the Gulab Nut (a hybrid of doughnut and gulab jamun, dunked in Old Monk). I’m not a dessert person, yet this is one dessert I can not resist. My favourite food are seafood curries. And my mom’s Xacuti with brown rice and fried fish on the side.
7. What was the most difficult professional decision you have ever taken?
(Ponders for a bit) I would say it was the decision to close Tabla. Because I loved the restaurant and the cuisine. It was no small feat. The restaurant itself was massive and a business decision had to be taken given the flat sales and increasing costs. However, it remained a tough call as it was loved by so many people.
Tandoori Pork Bada Pao Sandwich. Image Credits: Kaamna Patel
8. When you travel to India, which 2 places are your must-go-to for a meal?
Jai Hind – Bombil and fish curry. Also, the non-vegetarian fare at Hotel Deluxe in Fort. Oh yes, and Kalubhai’s mutton biryani in Bandra.
9. What next?
I am opening a new restaurant in New York in early summer, called Pao-Walla. The food will be Modern Indian, much like the food we serve here. However, The Bombay Canteen showcases Indian ingredients, Pao Walla will be all about using local American ingredients and cooking them in techniques we learnt from the interiors of India. No one does a good biryani in NY – maybe I can. Or something like Dahi Bhalla. User friendly, easy to eat, delicious.
10. What is the one trend in the global culinary scenario that you wish India embraces?
Seasonal local ingredients. I hope it becomes a way of life. Not enough people are doing it. Restaurants import too much. They are not using grains or produce from India. I think that it is always easier to take that road – it takes a conscious effort to source and procure from the interiors of the country, but it is possible. The Table is perhaps the only restaurant here that is growing produce on their farms and using the same in the restaurant.
The global culinary world is cut-throat and merciless. There is so much talent in kitchens across the world that it takes a truckload of talent, a sprinkling of luck and perhaps even some divine intervention to make a mark. However, despite the competitive environment, there have been certain Indian chefs who have managed to carve their place in culinary history. One such name is New York’s famous Chef Floyd Cardoz (of Tabla fame). A ‘Bombay’ boy, Chef Cardoz moved oversees eons back. What sets him apart though, is the fact that one can not say that he did not look back. After establishing perhaps one of the most popular Indian restaurants in New York and perhaps even USA, he did look back and thought of what he could bring to India. As a consequence, Mumbai’s culinary scene saw the welcome addition of The Bombay Canteen, which has just turned one.
