Edition: U.S. / Global

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Food

Edmund D. Fountain for The New York Times

Bayou Teche Brewery makes craft beers for only-in-Louisiana celebrations. Its distribution for now is limited to that state, Texas and Quebec.

Sous-Vide Gefilte Fish? A Chef’s Argentine-Jewish Cuisine

Tomás Kalika, who will soon open his second Buenos Aires restaurant, is giving diaspora cooking a tasting-menu (and Argentine) twist.

Restaurant Review

Sahib, in Curry Hill, Lets You Eat All Over India

The menu darts from Kashmir to South India and beyond at the newest restaurant from the prolific Hemant Mathur (with help from Shiva Natarajan).

Eleven Madison Park Plans a Makeover and a Summer Pop-Up

The top-rated Manhattan restaurant will close for three months of renovation and open a more casual version in the Hamptons.

City Kitchen

A Skinnier Pork Chop, and a Juicier Dinner

Double-thick pork chops may sound good and look impressive, but they often turn out dry.

A Good Appetite

For Maximum Crunch (and Convenience), Pull Out Your Sheet Pan

This spicy pasta with roasted broccoli, ricotta and a crisp bread-crumb topping comes together quickly.

The Waldorf Is Closing, but Its Salad Lives On

The Manhattan hotel, which will shut its doors indefinitely for renovations starting next month, gave rise to a dish that has made an indelible mark on American menus.

Hungry City

At Cafe Lily, the Korean-Uzbek Menu Evokes a Past Exodus

A family restaurant in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, serves the pungent cooking of Koryo Saram, descendants of Koreans who were exiled to Central Asia.

Off the Menu

Smith & Wollensky Veteran Makes His Mark in the West Village

Victor Chavez opens Greenwich Steakhouse, Ikinari Steak heads to the East Village, and other restaurant news.

Wines of The Times

Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs Blur the Boundary Lines

The pinot noirs from this unwieldy appellation can be quite good, but consumers may need to guess whether the wines truly come from near the Pacific.

In Spain, a Restaurant Reimagines the Famed El Bulli

The chef Albert Adrià’s latest opening aims to be a 2017 update of the acclaimed restaurant where he worked for 23 years.

Coconut Meat Gives This Vegan Jerky Its Bite

Cocoburg, made in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, sells jerky with kick in three flavors.

3 Swedish Hard Ciders to Pair With a Winter Meal

Brannland Ciders have arrived in America, with versions ranging from winey sweet to fizzy dry.

Celebrating the Funky Magic Behind Cheese, Beer and Pickles

New York’s first fermentation festival will include how-to demonstrations and kid-friendly exhibits.

A Ramen Master Sets His Sights on the Corner Slice

Ivan Orkin, who made a name perfecting ramen, has opened a pizza counter on the West Side.

A Chef’s Tasting Menu Will Be Available to Go

At Sugarfish, takeout customers can soon grab an omakase tasting box of sushi.

A Portable Roman Snack on the Lower East Side

The Trapizzino combines a focaccialike bread with hearty Italian fillings.

Restaurants and News
Dominique Crenn, center, with her staff at Atelier Crenn, one of her San Francisco restaurants.
Matt Edge for The New York Times

Dominique Crenn, center, with her staff at Atelier Crenn, one of her San Francisco restaurants.

The San Francisco chef is suddenly one of the world’s most acclaimed and visible cooks — and one of the few women ranked alongside men.

Michelin Star Mix-Up Throws a Working-Class Bistro Into a Media Storm

Le Bouche à Oreille, a modest restaurant in central France, got an accolade intended for a high-end restaurant of the same name.

Roti, a Recipe Mastered Through Repetition

Perhaps Trinidad’s most famous culinary export can take a lifetime for cooks to master.

A Bee Mogul Confronts the Crisis in His Field

Beekeeping on an industrial scale is central to American agriculture, and “colony collapse” has proved to be a severe test.

Culinary Clashes End in Harmony at Chinese Tuxedo

A stylish new restaurant melds Asian cuisines in a cavernous former Chinatown theater where a gang massacre once occurred.

Sell By? Use By? Grocery Industry Moves to Simplify Labels

To reduce needless waste and end confusion over differing language, two food industry trade groups and Walmart have agreed on only two basic labels.

Hungry City

Thai Food to Hearten the Homesick at Dek Sen in Elmhurst, Queens

The chef and his mother focus on the kind of unshowy, full-flavored dishes that are the running stitch of a Thai childhood.

Choice Tables

In Taipei, Restaurants That Harness the Bounty of Taiwan

A growing number of restaurants, from casual to upscale, are riding the wave of an “eat local” movement.

Feature

The Compost King of New York

What happens to food scraps after the city takes them? Soon a large fraction will wind up on Long Island, where Charles Vigliotti hopes to turn them into profit.

In Chinatown, a Go-To Thai Grocery

For those passionate about Thai cooking, Bangkok Center Grocery offers hard-to-find ingredients like fresh kaffir lime leaves, year-round.

A Peek at ABCV, a Top Chef’s First Vegetarian Restaurant

After years of planning, Jean-Georges Vongerichten is ready to open his latest outpost in a furniture store.

Entrepreneurship

Something Else to Enjoy With Your Cat: Happy Hour

Two start-ups are competing in the unusual business of selling catnip-laced “wines” to cat owners. So far, the drinks’ biggest fans are humans, not cats.

Two Bakers Thrive in Brooklyn, Far From Syria’s Turmoil

A refugee couple starts selling baklava and other sweets online, while waiting for word on a stranded son and his family.

Ask The Times

‘Why Do Americans Refrigerate Their Eggs?’

Our culinary compatriots in Europe, Asia and other parts of the world leave beautiful bowls of eggs on their kitchen counters. So what gives?

Cooking
Eat

In Praise of the Prune

Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times

A frangipane tart that showcases the pleasures of the dried fruit.

City Kitchen

Pastry for Those Who Prefer Savory to Sweet

If you have an hour and a box of phyllo dough, make a borek, a Turkish hand pie with a lamb and feta filling.

A Good Appetite

This Sauce Makes Everything Taste Better

Melt butter. Add garlic, lemon, herbs and spices. Then pour it over whatever you’d like.

Flames Fuel the Flavor in a Blood Orange Dessert

Seasonal citrus gets a turbocharge from a torch and a mint garnish courtesy of Augustine, Keith McNally’s new restaurant.

Yotam Ottolenghi: Eat Your Sugar

In his new baking column for The New York Times, the chef and cookbook author revels in the joy of a daily treat.

Binding the Nation in Its Love of Meatloaf

Two New York Times writers have collaborated on a decidedly bipartisan book of recipes and lore.

City Kitchen

A Savory, Tender Gnocchi Poised for Success

Beginner’s attempts at potato gnocchi usually produce tough, chewy specimens, but most home cooks can find success making a ricotta version.

Drinks
Erica O’Neal, the wine director at Italienne, retrieving a bottle of wine from the cellar. At the restaurant, she forgoes an old ritual by no longer first pouring a taste for the diner to evaluate.
Andrew White for The New York Times

Erica O’Neal, the wine director at Italienne, retrieving a bottle of wine from the cellar. At the restaurant, she forgoes an old ritual by no longer first pouring a taste for the diner to evaluate.

Some diners feel awkward when they are presented with the wine to taste. Should that age-old ritual be eliminated?

If You Liked Our Gin, Try Our Tonic

Liquor companies, not content to sell half of the cocktail, are getting into a new business: the nonalcoholic mixers.

11-Hour Lines for a New Ale? Fans Wait, Breweries Worry

The hordes have grown so huge and unwieldy that many businesses feel they have to manage or curtail them.

The Pour

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Manufacturing Wine

Wine may be made in the vineyard, but a huge California trade show suggests it needs a lot of assistance.

Wine School
Wine School
Your Next Lesson: Bandol

This fiercely structured red from Provence is a great wine for winter.

Learn to Cook
The New Essentials of French Cooking

From a simple omelet to stunning soufflés, these are the definitive French dishes that every modern cook should master.

Featured Recipes
Crawfish Étouffée
Pad Thai
Enchantress
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How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Best of 2016
Restaurant Review
Top New York Restaurants of 2016

Our critic counts down his favorites among the new places he reviewed this year.

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2016

These are the articles and columns that Food section readers found most compelling in 2016.

Culinary Travel
Bites
A Warm and Gooey Dish Steps Up in Zurich

At Raclette Factory, the namesake cheese is offered in new ways amid a casual setting.

Heads Up
Humble Magic in Georgian Capital’s Restaurant Renaissance

Culinary fever is spreading in Tbilisi, with post-Soviet restaurants dusting off their cookie-cutter menus and focusing on all things organic.

From Couture to Cuisine: Ralph Lauren Opens a London Restaurant

The American fashion designer’s latest foray into the food business debuted in his brand’s flagship store on Regent Street.

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