Edition: U.S. / Global

Sunday, March 5, 2017

Food

In this calamari and fregola stew, basil leaves are added at the end of cooking.
Karsten Moran for The New York Times

In this calamari and fregola stew, basil leaves are added at the end of cooking.

With roots in Tunisian and Sardinian cooking, fregola has become an attractive ingredient for American cooks, especially among chefs.

A Good Appetite

How Cooking Dinner Can Be a Dance

Once you get in the groove, preparing the day’s final meal can morph from a formidable chore into a delight.

Hungry City

A Different Kind of Alexandria Library, at Little Egypt

A restaurant in Ridgewood, Queens, features shelves of groceries, a shrine to Egyptian history and fish from a chef who once worked by the docks.

Looking for a Trump Doctrine in the White House Kitchen

The Obamas put food front and center, but the Trumps have yet to signal just how they will eat, entertain or set an example.

Rediscovering Black Bean Soup

Done well, this American classic can be a perfect dish: big-tasting, filling, nutritious and very easy to make.

Healthier Cereals Snare a Spot on New York School Menus

In a bite-size coup that could spread to other cities, a California upstart has replaced Kellogg products in the city’s free-breakfast program.

What to Cook This Weekend

Nova Scotia-style fish cakes, chicken Marbella, Persian jeweled rice: We’ve got recipes to fill and sustain you in the coming days.

Noma’s New Co-Owner Is No Stranger to Getting His Hands Dirty

Ali Sonko, a Gambian who washed dishes at the Michelin-starred restaurant in Denmark for 14 years, instantly became a symbol of immigrant success.

Danny Meyer Plans Restaurant High Above Financial District

Union Square Hospitality Group will run a restaurant and rooms for private events at the top of the former One Chase Manhattan Plaza, now known as 28 Liberty.

Stressed by Success, a Top Restaurant Turns to Therapy

A psychologist goes to El Celler de Can Roca, a fine-dining restaurant in Spain, each week to help employees cope with their high-tension jobs.

Utica Greens: A Central New York Staple With Multiple Identities

Tracing the origins of an Italian-American dish beloved in the central part of the state, but not much beyond.

How Dominique Ansel, Inventor of the Cronut, Spends His Sundays

The pastry chef tours new neighborhoods in his bakery’s minivan and finds time to hone his Taiwanese cooking skills.

Restaurants and News
An Rong Xu for The New York Times

A restaurant in Woodside, Queens, trades in the keyed-up spicing of the Himalayas.

Q&A;

The Secret to a Really Crisp Apple

Differences in cell walls result in some apples being mealy and some being magnificent.

At This Staten Island Restaurant, a Kitchen Run by Grandmas

A rotating roster of women from diverse backgrounds share their culinary heritages at Enoteca Maria in the St. George neighborhood.

Off the Menu

Villanelle, Serving Vegetable-Forward Fare, Opens in the East Village

The latest from the Cipriani family, a bar adjacent to the Meatball Shop in Hell’s Kitchen, and other restaurant news.

Nonfiction

‘Food Fights and Culture Wars: A Secret History of Taste’

In “Food Fights and Culture Wars,” Tom Nealon presents a lavishly illustrated look at the impact of historical forces on cuisine.

A Mediterranean Escape on the Upper East Side

Korali, with its fresh seafood, Greek olive oil, airy décor and cheerful customer base, makes for the perfect ode to a taverna.

A Tortilla Chip Made With Coconut

The latest coconut product is made by a restaurateur in Tulum, Mexico.

Give Your Guacamole Hawaiian Flavor

The Sharwil, a Hawaiian avocado once banned on the mainland, is now available.

Savory Purim Treats From Breads Bakery

The Manhattan bakery will offer hamantaschen made with beets or potatoes for the month of March.

Cookbook Author to Discuss Persian Cuisine

Naomi Duguid, the author of “Taste of Persia,” will give a talk for the Culinary Historians of New York.

Ice Creams Spiked With Whiskey for St. Patrick’s Day

OddFellows Ice Cream Company in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, celebrates the holiday with three new flavors.

A Children’s Food Delivery Service That Pleases Adults

Nurturie makes dishes created by the chef Katy Sparks for New York City families.

Restaurant Review

Sahib, in Curry Hill, Lets You Eat All Over India

The menu darts from Kashmir to South India and beyond at the newest restaurant from the prolific Hemant Mathur (with help from Shiva Natarajan).

The New Age of Traditional Mexican Mole

The country’s top chefs are reinventing the complex sauce — 10, 20, even 30 ingredients at a time.

One of Atlanta’s Last Stores on Wheels Navigates a World of Change

The “stores” — trucks that sell snacks and small grocery items — used to hum through areas near public housing. But they’re an increasingly rare sight.

Sous-Vide Gefilte Fish? A Chef’s Argentine-Jewish Cuisine

Tomás Kalika, who will soon open his second Buenos Aires restaurant, is giving diaspora cooking a tasting-menu (and Argentine) twist.

Eleven Madison Park Plans a Makeover and a Summer Pop-Up

The top-rated Manhattan restaurant will close for three months of renovation and open a more casual version in the Hamptons.

Eduardo García’s Path: Migrant Worker, Convict, Deportee, Star Chef

Mr. García has won plaudits for his fusing of Mexican and French cuisine. He is also banned from the United States.

Hungry City

At Cafe Lily, the Korean-Uzbek Menu Evokes a Past Exodus

A family restaurant in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, serves the pungent cooking of Koryo Saram, descendants of Koreans who were exiled to Central Asia.

In Spain, a Restaurant Reimagines the Famed El Bulli

The chef Albert Adrià’s latest opening aims to be a 2017 update of the acclaimed restaurant where he worked for 23 years.

In Chinatown, a Go-To Thai Grocery

For those passionate about Thai cooking, Bangkok Center Grocery offers hard-to-find ingredients like fresh kaffir lime leaves, year-round.

Cooking
City Kitchen

A Croque-Madame Dressed Up With Crab

Karsten Moran for The New York Times

Add fresh crab meat to this French cafe classic, a hot ham and cheese sandwich adorned with an egg.

A Good Appetite

A Vegetable Tart, but Nothing Too Dainty

This roasted mushroom and butternut squash tart, loaded with cheese on a whole-grain crust, is more rustic than refined, and better for it.

Eat

A Caramelized Cabbage Casserole to Get You to Spring

Bare farmers’ markets in early March can leave home cooks adrift, but this sweet and savory Swedish dish can get you past the hump.

A Good Appetite

For Maximum Crunch (and Convenience), Pull Out Your Sheet Pan

This spicy pasta with roasted broccoli, ricotta and a crisp bread-crumb topping comes together quickly.

The Waldorf Is Closing, but Its Salad Lives On

The Manhattan hotel, which will shut its doors temporarily for renovations starting next month, gave rise to a dish that has made an indelible mark on American menus.

City Kitchen

A Skinnier Pork Chop, and a Juicier Dinner

Double-thick pork chops may sound good and look impressive, but they often turn out dry.

City Kitchen

Pastry for Those Who Prefer Savory to Sweet

If you have an hour and a box of phyllo dough, make a borek, a Turkish hand pie with a lamb and feta filling.

A Good Appetite

This Sauce Makes Everything Taste Better

Melt butter. Add garlic, lemon, herbs and spices. Then pour it over whatever you’d like.

Flames Fuel the Flavor in a Blood Orange Dessert

Seasonal citrus gets a turbocharge from a torch and a mint garnish courtesy of Augustine, Keith McNally’s new restaurant.

Yotam Ottolenghi: Eat Your Sugar

In his new baking column for The New York Times, the chef and cookbook author revels in the joy of a daily treat.

Binding the Nation in Its Love of Meatloaf

Two New York Times writers have collaborated on a decidedly bipartisan book of recipes and lore.

City Kitchen

A Savory, Tender Gnocchi Poised for Success

Beginner’s attempts at potato gnocchi usually produce tough, chewy specimens, but most home cooks can find success making a ricotta version.

Drinks
Sonny Figueroa/The New York Times

You trust them with your cocktail, so why not take some travel advice from the new book “Where Bartenders Drink,” and follow them to their favorite off-hours bars.

Wine School

The Transporting Pleasures of Red Bandol

Many wines may share certain characteristics, but few are as distinctive as this burly red from Provence.

Airlines Aim to Trick Your Taste Buds at 30,000 Feet

A Hong Kong carrier has introduced a beer brewed to taste good at high altitudes, since noise, dry air and plastic cutlery affect our sense of taste.

Q. AND A.

At Fort Lauderdale’s Mai-Kai, It’s Always Tiki Time

David Levy, who runs the enduring Mai-Kai, talks about its stage show, the annual festival called the Hukilau, and famous drinks like the rum barrel.

Wines of The Times

Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs Blur the Boundary Lines

The pinot noirs from this unwieldy appellation can be quite good, but consumers may need to guess whether the wines truly come from near the Pacific.

Time to Select From the Wine List? Relax, Here’s How

The rituals for ordering wine can seem arcane and confusing. Here are suggestions for how to make it work for you.

Wine School
Your Next Lesson: Ribeira Sacra

These reds from the Galicia region of northwestern Spain are both ancient and strikingly modern.

Featured Recipes
Eggs Benedict
Omelet
Utica Greens
Pad Thai
Enchantress
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Best of 2016
Restaurant Review
Top New York Restaurants of 2016

Our critic counts down his favorites among the new places he reviewed this year.

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2016

These are the articles and columns that Food section readers found most compelling in 2016.

Culinary Travel
Bites
In Portland, Middle Eastern Flavors Meet a California Vibe

Tusk is a showcase for local Oregon ingredients viewed through a Middle Eastern lens.

Bites
A Warm and Gooey Dish Steps Up in Zurich

At Raclette Factory, the namesake cheese is offered in new ways amid a casual setting.

Heads Up
Humble Magic in Georgian Capital’s Restaurant Renaissance

Culinary fever is spreading in Tbilisi, with post-Soviet restaurants dusting off their cookie-cutter menus and focusing on all things organic.

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