Edition: U.S. / Global

Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Food

The classic Duncan grapefruit has become virtually impossible to find beyond a few places like Hollieanna Groves in Maitland, Fla.
Todd Anderson for The New York Times

The classic Duncan grapefruit has become virtually impossible to find beyond a few places like Hollieanna Groves in Maitland, Fla.

Once a breakfast staple, this white, seed-packed variety of the fruit has all but disappeared. Yet there are hints of a small-scale revival.

Her Memory Fading, Paula Wolfert Fights Back With Food

The pioneering cookbook author, who has Alzheimer’s disease, no longer cooks much. But a special diet and persistence keep her as kinetic as ever.

Restaurant Review

Testing the Limits of Trust, and Sushi, at Sugarfish

The New York branch of a Los Angeles chain has plenty of efficiency and customers, but the fish options can be limited.

Montreal Chefs Are Fuming Over a Casino’s French Import

Many are angry that the Quebec government passed them over and chose the French chef Joël Robuchon to run a flagship restaurant.

Adam Leonti Will Become Chef at Sessanta Instead of Harvey

Tired of waiting for Harvey to open in the Williamsburg Hotel, the former Vetri chef will join John McDonald’s restaurant in SoHo.

Paula Wolfert’s World

Check out Kim Severson’s beautiful profile of the cookbook author, and make some of her recipes.

Bittersweet Radicchio Is at Its Peak Now

There are more varieties than ever available to cooks, in a vibrant array of shapes and colors.

A Good Appetite

A Chocolate Malted You Can Scoop

This rich ice cream, rippled with chocolate fudge, captures the essence of the classic soda fountain drink.

City Kitchen

My New Favorite Beans

Purists eat them plain, with salt and a spoonful of olive oil, but they are especially satisfying in an it’s-almost-spring stew.

Hungry City

Finding the Joys of Jianbing Across New York

The savory crepe with an omelet underbelly and a heart of fried dough was once elusive, but some chefs are trying to make it as essential as tacos and falafel.

Americans Ate 19% Less Beef From ’05 to ’14, Report Says

The Natural Resources Defense Council, an environmental group, said lower demand reduced greenhouse gas emissions.

The Pour

One Wine Glass to Rule Them All

A vast number of choices and contradictory advice can make buying a set baffling, but a few principles will help simplify the process.

Off the Menu

Alex Stupak Unveils His Empellón Flagship in Midtown Manhattan

A move by James Kent, Masa Takayama’s non-sushi project moves forward, and other restaurant news.

When the French Chef Becomes the Pitmaster’s Pupil

The new executive chef at Benoit in New York, Laetitia Rouabah, is teaming up with Hometown Bar-B-Que’s pitmaster, Billy Durney.

Bien Cuit Set to Open in Grand Central

The Brooklyn bakery will sell croissant bread pudding and curried choux puffs in addition to its breads.

Treasures From the Sea, and Tastes From Singapore

The cafe at the Asia Society is serving Peranakan food, a blend of Chinese and Malay recipes from Singapore, in conjunction with a shipwreck exhibition.

For a London Dry Gin, a More Assertive Tonic

This mixer from Q Drinks is a fine match for juniper-forward gins.

Israel’s Rich Culinary Legacy Revealed in a New Film

A documentary follows the chef Michael Solomonov on a journey through the country’s kitchens.

One Man’s Mission to Sketch New York Restaurants

A new exhibition shows some of the work of John Donohue, a former New Yorker editor, who draws city architecture.

Behind Lucky Peach’s Closing, Colliding Visions

The irreverent magazine, which linked food and journalism in a fresh way, foundered in part on differences among its partners.

Restaurants and News
A group of chefs gather at Serenbe, a farming and residential community south of Atlanta, the James Beard Foundation’s Chefs Boot Camp for Policy and Change.
Dustin Chambers for The New York Times

A group of chefs gather at Serenbe, a farming and residential community south of Atlanta, the James Beard Foundation’s Chefs Boot Camp for Policy and Change.

Since the election, many restaurateurs have taken a stand on tough issues, especially immigration. But others are torn.

Mixing Food and Feminism, Bloodroot Is 40 and Still Cooking

The bookstore and vegetarian restaurant in Bridgeport, Conn., has been following its appetites and ideals since it opened in 1977.

Q. and A.

Tips From an Ambassador for Israeli Cuisine

Michael Solomonov, the chef at Zahav in Philadelphia, is the host of a new documentary film on Israel and its dynamic food scene.

Marijuana Industry Presses Ahead in California’s Wine Country

Sonoma County has become a seedbed of cannabis experimentation, despite threats from the Trump administration to increase enforcement against recreational use.

Restaurant Review

A MacGyver of Slow-Cooked Meats at Franklin Barbecue

Aaron Franklin, a new-traditionalist tinkerer, is producing exemplary brisket and long lines in Austin, Tex.

Hungry City

Butterfunk Kitchen Is Driven by Soul Food and Built on Memories

Deviled eggs, deep-fried corn on the cob and scrapple honor the chef’s roots at this restaurant in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn.

The Chef

Italian Food With Southern Soul

At their four restaurants in Memphis, the chefs Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman build Italian dishes with the local ingredients they love.

Carol Field, Italian Food Expert, Dies at 76

She was one of the new wave of cookbook writers who put as much emphasis on fine writing and context as on the recipes themselves.

Cultured Traveler

Celebrating Food and Wine in Bordeaux

This port city in southwestern France has surpassed its wine reputation and become a full-fledged gastro hub.

Wine Bar Sues Trump and Hotel, Claiming Illegal Advantage

A couple say that their bar and restaurant, Cork, has suffered from unfair competition from establishments in Trump International Hotel in Washington.

Burrowing Under Luminous Ice to Retrieve Mussels

When the winter tide goes out on a northern Canadian bay, some Inuit clamber into the ice caves below to harvest fresh food.

Honey, Please Pick Up Some Grilled Tilapia at the Gas Station

A wave of gas stations and convenience stores are capitalizing on a growing demand for fresh, healthful and convenient road food.

Cooking
From far left: herbed rice with tahdig; herb and radish salad with feta and walnuts; fish stuffed with herbs, walnuts and pomegranate.
Michael Kraus for The New York Times

From far left: herbed rice with tahdig; herb and radish salad with feta and walnuts; fish stuffed with herbs, walnuts and pomegranate.

During Nowruz, the holiday table abounds with vibrantly flavored dishes dense with herbs and symbolism.

City Kitchen

The French Love to Eat This. Why Don’t Americans?

Braise lean, tender rabbit with wine, herbs, mustard and crème fraîche for a classic and marvelous meal.

A Good Appetite

Beef Barley Soup Lightens Up

Fragrant with spices, tangy with lemon, and filled with vegetables, this is not your typical bowl.

Eat

The Secret That Brings These Pancakes to Life

A fruit-filled pancake as thick and even as a layer of birthday cake.

The Bright Magic of Citrus in the Baking Pan

The scent and taste of lemon evoke powerful memories of childhood summers in Italy.

A Good Appetite

How Cooking Dinner Can Be a Dance

Once you get in the groove, preparing the day’s final meal can morph from a formidable chore into a delight.

City Kitchen

A Relative of Couscous Finds a Wider Fan Base

With roots in Tunisian and Sardinian cooking, fregola has become an attractive ingredient for American cooks, especially among chefs.

Rediscovering Black Bean Soup

Done well, this American classic can be a perfect dish: big-tasting, filling, nutritious and very easy to make.

Utica Greens: A Central New York Staple With Multiple Identities

Tracing the origins of an Italian-American dish beloved in the central part of the state, but not much beyond.

City Kitchen

A Croque-Madame Dressed Up With Crab

Add fresh crab meat to this French cafe classic, a hot ham and cheese sandwich adorned with an egg.

A Good Appetite

A Vegetable Tart, but Nothing Too Dainty

This roasted mushroom and butternut squash tart, loaded with cheese on a whole-grain crust, is more rustic than refined, and better for it.

Drinks
From left, D. Ventura Ribeira Sacra Viña Caneiro, Décima Ribeira Sacra 2014 and Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto 2015.
William P. O'Donnell/The New York Times

From left, D. Ventura Ribeira Sacra Viña Caneiro, Décima Ribeira Sacra 2014 and Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto 2015.

These reds from the Galicia region of northwestern Spain are both ancient and strikingly modern.

Opinion

Ignore the Snobs, Drink the Cheap, Delicious Wine

Flavor engineers are designing bottles to please consumers’ palates.

Spirits of The Times

Irish Whiskeys Rise Above the Annual Celebration

Sales have soared over the last 15 years, and so has the level of quality for this distinctive spirit.

The Pour

Want to Pick Better Bottles? Repeat After Me: Wine Is Food

Thinking about what you drink as carefully as you do about what you eat can lead to much better bottles on the table.

Alinea Group of Chicago Opening Cocktail Lounges in New York

The Aviary and the Office will move into the Mandarin Oriental New York on Columbus Circle.

Cooking Guides
How to Drink Wine

Learn how to talk about wine, pair it with food, order it at a restaurant and more.

Featured Recipes
Buckeyes
Veal Pojarski
Eggs Benedict
Omelet
Utica Greens
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How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

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Best of 2016
Restaurant Review
Top New York Restaurants of 2016

Our critic counts down his favorites among the new places he reviewed this year.

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2016

These are the articles and columns that Food section readers found most compelling in 2016.

Culinary Travel
Check In
In Vietnam, a Doyenne of Food Expands to Tasteful Lodging

Trinh Diem Vy runs four of the most popular restaurants in the charming town of Hoi An, Vietnam, and the 35-room Maison Vy is her first hotel venture.

Bites
A Restaurant That Brings the Italian Coast to Miami Beach

Forte dei Marmi serves food kissed by a sea breeze, always a good idea in a sun-drenched location.

Frugal Traveler
Beer on a Budget in San Diego

The Southern California city isn’t just about the beautiful outdoors. Beer has taken hold in a big way.

Boîte
Now Serving in Williamsburg: A Bar Hidden in a Deli

Mezcaleria La Milagrosa, which is behind a freezer door, serves five types of margaritas in a festive atmosphere.

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