Is Joella's Hot Chicken in Indy worth all the fuss?
Since Joella’s debuted Jan. 26 on the Northside, people have been lining up to try the hot chicken
Is Joella's hot chicken worth the wait?
“My friend told me it wasn’t awful,” one woman said at the end of the queue that stretched nearly out the door on Jan. 29.
“But was it good?” someone asked.
“She said it wasn’t awful,” the woman reiterated, to which a guy behind her whispered, “Oh, it’s good.”
Since Joella’s debuted Jan. 26 at 4715 E. 96th St., between Keystone Avenue and Allisonville Road, people have lined up to try the hot chicken. Cooks fried so much bird that first weekend that the electrical system went wonky one day, causing a two-hour delay. Folks didn't fret. They came right back when systems were go again.
My wait was about 30 minutes from the time I arrived until chicken landed on my table.
Hot chicken, born in Nashville, Tenn., is fried chicken dipped in spicy oil. Joella's sauces range from mild to fiery. Every time someone orders the hottest Fire in the Hole sauce on their chicken, the Joella's crew yells "Fire in the Hole." Take it as a warning. I ordered the quarter white dinner (breast, wing and one side dish for $8.50) with the second-hottest "Get'n There" sauce. I got two bites in before surrendering. The sauce is a creeper. One bite in, you think, "Oh, no big deal," and then your whole mouth stings, your lips swell and you can feel the burn going down. I thought a side of mac and cheese would help douse the fire. I was wrong — and not just because the mac and cheese was gummy and bland. Joella's cold, creamy banana pudding is the best burn salve. A big portion is full of vanilla wafer cookies and sweet banana slices ($3.50).
Wings are huge at Joella's. Three arrive on a slice of white bread, plus one side dish and dipping sauce, all for $8.75. My monsters wore the mid-level Ella's Favorite sauce. If you like a peppery bite but don't want to destroy your taste buds, this is your sauce. The meat was tender enough so that the wings came apart easily. Take little bites and chew carefully. The coating on Joella's chicken is crunchy enough to scratch your palate. Underwhelming sweet vinegar slaw offered mine a little cool relief.
I came for the hot chicken, but left loving the chicken and pimento cheese sandwich ($9). I chose the medium-high "Tweener" sauce. The sting was noticeable, but not scorching, which meant I could detect the generous pimento cheese load. It was a creamy, crispy, can't-stop-eating this, better-order-one-to-go moment. Boneless chicken breast pieces are big and tender. They (or wings) also come on the chicken and waffles platter ($9), a worthy combination with sweet and mild Spike'd Honey sauce, Joella's lowest heat level. If you're a syrup lover, ask for an extra container. One was not quite enough for the four soft and chewy waffle wedges dusted with powdered sugar.
Try Joella's after opening week excitement wears off. Otherwise, consider offpeak hours between 2 and 5 p.m. or 8 to 9 p.m. I like the chicken, but it's not worth a wait. Minus the sauces, I wouldn't say Joella's chicken was better than fried chicken at Maxine's Downtown or Gray Brothers Cafeteria in Mooresville. The prices are reasonable ($8.50 to $11.50), the service good, the staff friendly and attentive. I appreciate the sauces' various heat levels and that I can get a local beer there ($4.50 to $5.50). I might skip the side dishes next time. None of mine were impressive, but I may give the shoestring fries one more chance.
Follow IndyStar food writer Liz Biro on Twitter: @lizbiro, Instagram: @lizbiro, Facebook and Pinterest. Call her at (317) 444-6264.
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