Jiayang Fan
Jiayang Fan became a staff writer at The New Yorker in 2016. Her reporting on China, American politics, and culture has appeared in the magazine and on since 2010. She is currently working on her first book, “Motherland,” which will be published by Farrar, Straus, and Giroux in 2023.
All Work
Tables for TwoOctober 18, 2021 Issue
The Evolution of an Empire, at Momofuku Ssäm Bar
The latest incarnation of David Chang’s maverick sophomore effort, which once defined the East Village food scene, now resides in an L.E.D.-lit behemoth in the South Street Seaport.
By Jiayang FanOctober 8, 2021
Tables for TwoSeptember 27, 2021 Issue
Chinese Dishes from Fertile Jiangnan, at CheLi
The East Village restaurant serves drunken crab, smoked fish, and other specialties, some of which were, according to lore, born of a Qing-dynasty emperor’s tours of the region south of the Yangtze River.
By Jiayang FanSeptember 17, 2021
Tables for TwoSeptember 6, 2021 Issue
A Boldness of Vision at Little Mad
At the NoMad restaurant, the chef Sol Han’s Korean-inflected cuisine seems determined to establish its own identity, with dishes such as the crispy pig-ear salad, and rice with mushrooms and bone marrow scraped tableside.
By Jiayang FanAugust 27, 2021
Tables for TwoAugust 16, 2021 Issue
Seafood Towers at Margie’s in the Rockaways
The flagship restaurant of the new Rockaway Hotel offers unfussy dishes such as mac and cheese, burrata, and mussels, as well as lobster toast and early-season heirloom tomatoes as fresh as the oysters and cherrystone clams.
By Jiayang FanAugust 6, 2021
Daily Comment
Why Beijing Shut Down Hong Kong’s Leading Pro-Democracy Newspaper
The fearlessness and irreverence of Apple Daily was highly prized in a society tilting toward authoritarian dominion.
By Jiayang FanJune 30, 2021
Annals of GastronomyMay 17, 2021 Issue
The Gatekeepers Who Get to Decide What Food Is “Disgusting”
At the Disgusting Food Museum, in Sweden, where visitors are served dishes such as fermented shark and stinky tofu, I felt both like a tourist and like one of the exhibits.
By Jiayang FanMay 10, 2021
Daily Comment
The Atlanta Shooting and the Dehumanizing of Asian Women
To live through this period as an Asian-American is to feel trapped in an American tragedy while being denied the legitimacy of being an American.
By Jiayang FanMarch 19, 2021
Personal History
Chronicles of a Bubble-Tea Addict
Boba and I spent our adolescence as scrappy, enterprising immigrants at America’s periphery. For a new generation, it’s a ubiquitous, Instagram-friendly mark of Asian identity.
By Jiayang FanJanuary 29, 2021
Personal HistorySeptember 14, 2020 Issue
How My Mother and I Became Chinese Propaganda
Immigrant struggles in America forged a bond that became even tighter after my mother’s A.L.S. diagnosis. Then, as COVID-19 threatened, Chinese nationalists began calling us traitors to our country.
By Jiayang FanSeptember 7, 2020
Daily Comment
China’s Arrest of a Free-Speech Icon Backfires in Hong Kong
The arrest of the tycoon and democracy activist Jimmy Lai has reinvigorated defiance rather than demoralize his supporters.
By Jiayang FanAugust 14, 2020
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