The Magazine
Food & Drink: An Archival Issue
September 6, 2021
“Food for Thought,” by Tom Gauld.
Reporting
Gastronomy Recalled
Notes on Cravings
From 1968: There is, in fantasizing about food, no saturation point, no moment at which the body must cry Help!
By M. F. K. Fisher
Annals of Gastronomy
One Day—and One Night—in the Kitchen at Les Halles
From 2000: For weekenders at the restaurant on Park Avenue South where I work as the chef, a saddle of wild hare stuffed with foie gras is not a good special.
By Anthony Bourdain
U.S. Journal
Eating Crawfish in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana
From 1972: There are crawfish (or crayfish, or crawdads) all over the country, but outside of Louisiana they are all but ignored—lumps of clay lacking a sculptor.
By Calvin Trillin
Dept. of Gastronomy
Save the Planet, Eat a Bug
From 2011: Plentiful and protein-rich, insects are food in much of the world. Why not here?
By Dana Goodyear
Popular Chronicles
The Homesick Restaurant Run by Cuban Refugees
From 1996: What’s the difference between the Centro Vasco in Havana and the one in Miami? Thirty-three years of dreaming.
By Susan Orlean
Letter from Islay
Reinventing Scotch Whisky
From 2013: The brash owner of a historic distillery works to make an old spirit new again.
By Kelefa Sanneh
The Critics
A Critic at Large
The Promises Martha Stewart Made—and Why We Wanted to Believe Them
From 2000: By branding herself not as Superwoman but as Everywoman, Stewart made even her troubles an integral part of her success.
By Joan Didion
Readings
What’s the Point of Food in Fiction?
From 2007: In modern literature, the way we cook provides a recipe for representing the way we think.
By Adam Gopnik
The Current Cinema
The Lovable Idealism of “Big Night”
From 1996: Although the picture is dedicated to the principle of tiny, delicate, scrupulously crafted aesthetic pleasures, the filmmakers have the good sense to lay on plenty of them.
By Terrence Rafferty
First Tastes
First Tastes
The Flavor of Memory
From 2002: I was left with honey on my palate and in my soul.
By Madhur Jaffrey
First Tastes
How Sea Urchin Tastes
From 2002: I point to a bin and say that’s what I want—those split spiny spheres, like cracked-open meteorites.
By Chang-rae Lee
First Tastes
A Sandwich
From 2002: It’s soft but crispy, tender but chewy, peppery but sour, smoky but tangy. It’s a symphony orchestra.
By Nora Ephron
Take Out
Take It or Leave It
From 2013: Every New Yorker has heard a newly arrived British person grumble about tipping.
By Zadie Smith
The Talk of the Town
Nathan Heller on California’s cynical recall election; a year on; Audrey Flack; a nude Antigone; receipts off.
Comment
California’s Recall Is a Blow to Democratic Change
The challenge to Governor Gavin Newsom strains election norms and institutions that are already dangerously frayed.
By Nathan Heller
Checking In
Same Old, Same Old: Pandemic Déjà Vu
Remember last summer, when we all wore masks and everyone was adopting a pet? Wait! That’s this summer, too.
By Zach Helfand
Studio Visit
Audrey Flack Keeps It Real
The ninety-year-old artist, once known for photo-realist works, dishes on Josef Albers (a bit of a letch), the Abstract Expressionists (sex-crazed), and Rodin (“a perv”), as she prepares for a new show.
By Emma Allen
The Boards
Sophocles Gone Wild!
For a nude production of “Antigonick,” a translation of the Greek play “Antigone,” performers for Torn Out Theatre dodged the crazies and the lookie-loos during rehearsals in Prospect Park.
By Henry Alford
The Pictures
The Standup Who Doubles as a Digital Emily Post
Jaboukie Young-White stars in “Dating & New York,” an old-school rom-com refreshed for the swipe-right era.
By Andrew Marantz
More Talk of the Town
Shouts & Murmurs
Shouts & Murmurs
When Lean Cuisine Was New
From 2000: Would you like the Fried-Butter Appetizer? Or is the Air Salad more to your liking?
By Steve Martin
Cartoons
Fiction
Fiction
“The Year of Spaghetti”
From 2005: “In 1971, I cooked spaghetti to live, and lived to cook spaghetti.”
By Haruki Murakami
Fiction
“Pnin Gives a Party”
From 1955: “Half past eight, post meridiem. A little house-heating soirée, nothing more.”
By Vladimir Nabokov
Puzzles & Games Dept.
Crossword
The Crossword: Monday, August 30, 2021
A challenging puzzle.
By Patrick Berry
Poems
Poems
“Refrigerator, 1957”
From 1997: “This is not / a place to go in hope or hunger.”
By Thomas Lux
Poems
“The Lazy Susan”
From 2016: “The lazy Susan, in antiquity, would have been a fire.”
By Adrienne Su
Goings On About Town
The Theatre
A Play About Love Written in Isolation
Ngozi Anyanwu stars opposite Daniel J. Watts in her play “The Last of the Love Letters,” which follows a pair of lovers grappling with their relationship, at the Atlantic Theatre Company.
Tables for Two
A Boldness of Vision at Little Mad
At the NoMad restaurant, the chef Sol Han’s Korean-inflected cuisine seems determined to establish its own identity, with dishes such as the crispy pig-ear salad, and rice with mushrooms and bone marrow scraped tableside.
By Jiayang Fan
More Goings On About Town
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