First Tastes
Take It or Leave It
From 2013: Every New Yorker has heard a newly arrived British person grumble about tipping.
As the French Do
Cooking the Alice B. Toklas way.
How Sea Urchin Tastes
From 2002: I point to a bin and say that’s what I want—those split spiny spheres, like cracked-open meteorites.
A Sandwich
It’s soft but crispy, tender but chewy, peppery but sour, smoky but tangy. It’s a symphony orchestra.
The Flavor of Memory
From 2002: I was left with honey on my palate and in my soul.