Tables for Two
September 27, 2021 Issue
Chinese Dishes from Fertile Jiangnan, at CheLi
The East Village restaurant serves drunken crab, smoked fish, and other specialties, some of which were, according to lore, born of a Qing-dynasty emperor’s tours of the region south of the Yangtze River.
By Jiayang FanSeptember 17, 2021
September 20, 2021 Issue
Goose Barnacles and Basque Cooking at Haizea
At his tiny SoHo restaurant, the chef Mikel de Luis offers strikingly composed plates of croquettes, Kobe-beef tartare, and seafood that looks like it just jumped out of the ocean.
By Shauna LyonSeptember 10, 2021
September 13, 2021 Issue
Taking Care with Babushka Classics, at Tzarevna
Compared with ostentatious Russian-inspired establishments, this modern, elegantly minimalist restaurant on the Lower East Side—where the focus lies on the food, which is superlative—comes as a kind of spiritual relief.
By David KortavaSeptember 3, 2021
September 6, 2021 Issue
A Boldness of Vision at Little Mad
At the NoMad restaurant, the chef Sol Han’s Korean-inflected cuisine seems determined to establish its own identity, with dishes such as the crispy pig-ear salad, and rice with mushrooms and bone marrow scraped tableside.
By Jiayang FanAugust 27, 2021
August 30, 2021 Issue
Crab Boils, at the Crabby Shack and Sup Crab
The Crabby Shack, which opened in Crown Heights before Asian-Cajun crab boils began popping up all over, serves perfectly seasoned crab legs and “clobster” rolls; Sup Crab offers a Sichuan-peppercorn-laced boil that’s worth seeking out.
By Shauna LyonAugust 20, 2021
August 23, 2021 Issue
Eating Responsibly at Lighthouse
Assaf and Naama Tamir, the proprietors of the Williamsburg restaurant, take scrupulous care to insure that their ingredients are ethically processed, offering Mediterranean meze and jerk-marinated chicken shawarma.
By David KortavaAugust 13, 2021
August 16, 2021 Issue
Seafood Towers at Margie’s in the Rockaways
The flagship restaurant of the new Rockaway Hotel offers unfussy dishes such as mac and cheese, burrata, and mussels, as well as lobster toast and early-season heirloom tomatoes as fresh as the oysters and cherrystone clams.
By Jiayang FanAugust 6, 2021
August 9, 2021 Issue
Contento’s Joyful Commitment to Inclusivity
The sommelier and co-founder Yannick Benjamin, who uses a wheelchair, designed this new East Harlem restaurant, with a Peruvian-inspired menu, to accommodate both diners and staff members with disabilities.
By Hannah GoldfieldJuly 30, 2021
August 2, 2021 Issue
Ice Cream from Gimmick to Rapture
The summer’s flavors include Kraft Macaroni & Cheese, Sea Salt Saba, and Roasted Banana with Coffee Caramel, made by the intrepid purveyors Van Leeuwen, Caffè Panna, and Bad Habit.
By Hannah GoldfieldJuly 23, 2021
July 26, 2021 Issue
The Intersection of Korean and Cajun Cuisine at Kjun
The dishes at the chef Jae Jung’s pickup-and-delivery-only restaurant in the East Village include Cajun-spiced honey-butter potato chips, gumbo with a side of okra kimchi, and phenomenal fried chicken.
By Hannah GoldfieldJuly 16, 2021
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