Choosing the most suitable suncare product can be tricky. Luckily there is now a plethora of formulas suitable for every skin type and requirement. Sunscreens fall into two main categories: physical (also known as mineral) and chemical (also called organic). There are also combined physical and chemical formulas.
Physical sunscreen acts as a barrier that blocks UV rays and deflects them away from the skin. You can identify a physical sunscreen by the inclusion of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide in the ingredients list. ‘Physical sunscreens are safe for use throughout pregnancy and on babies, are generally well tolerated and unlikely to cause irritation for those with sensitive skin or with skin conditions such as rosacea,’ explains Dr Susan Mayou, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic in London. Typically, these formulas are thicker and less suitable for oily, acne-prone skin.
Chemical sunscreen, explains Mayou, works by ‘absorbing the UV radiation and converting it into infrared, which is released from the skin’. These formulas are lightweight and don’t leave a white cast. However, due to the higher number of ingredients, they are more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
There is also the level of protection to consider. SPF (sun protection factor) is a measure of how well the sunscreen protects you from UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn and skin cancer. The British Association of Dermatologists considers SPF 30 to have satisfactory levels of protection, but many experts – Mayou included – would opt for SPF 50.
However, SPF does not take UVA rays (responsible for sun-induced wrinkles and pigmentation, in addition to skin cancer) into consideration. For British brands, look for a four- or five-star UVA rating, and for Japanese brands, look for a PA (protection grade of UVA) rating of +++ or ++++. If the UVA rating pictured on the bottle is inside a circle, it means the product is within EU-recommended guidelines. High SPF coupled with the term ‘broad spectrum’ (meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB) are a good indication of sufficient protection.
This is an edited version of an article originally published in the September issue
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