I am breaking the sacred code of the island by sharing with you what has become my favourite place on Earth: Patmos in Greece, a very well-kept secret for decades, cherished and protected at all costs by loyal Patmians.
It is rare nowadays, if not close to impossible, to find a spot by the sea that isn’t flooded by tourists and over-commercialised in the style of St Tropez or Mykonos, which turns every summer into a pathetic battle for restaurant bookings, war for the front-row loungers and angry bids to get a dancefloor table in the hip nightclub. There’s nothing wrong with enjoying a blingy summer, but I personally find it too much work and I very much want a holiday that sets me free of any effort whatsoever.
This is why I have fallen completely in love with this island. Apart from one or two new places, Patmos remains an authentic Greek island where you see more locals than tourists, and where going to the beach means packing a picnic and towels, and finding a tree to sit under to read your book. Every morning you can take a charming local boat around incredibly beautiful little bays, surrounded by the most stunning azure-coloured sea; you can jump into the water, follow up with a delicious, simple lunch on board – then head off for more bay-hopping until the sun goes down, when you are left completely alone with the majestic beauty of Greece. Another joy is to hike on a windy, winding road all the way to the most magical sand beach, Psili Ammos, which nudists find a great spot to make one with nature. There’s nothing more rewarding than leaping into the sea after a long and sweaty hike.
Of course, I can’t deny that the social life of Patmos is very much alive – it has become quite the desired island for creatives and sensitive souls looking for a life of beauty, elegance and simplicity that can’t be found anywhere else and nowadays only exists in old classic movies. There is, to be sure, the who’s who of the island, which forms an endless topic of conversation: the ‘Who has rented John Stefanidis’s house this year?’ discussion is inevitable, as is the chatter about who has the chicest boat in the harbour – both very crucial questions that one must find the answer to.
It is customary to get invited to up to five dinners a night and endless drinks during August, but this year I decided not to attend any except for my wonderful friend Katell Le Bourhis’s drinks party. It is simply one you cannot refuse; Katell worked with the legendary Diana Vreeland and is one of the most fun and emblematic figures of the island.
It has been a great relief not to enter into the all-consuming social scene that Patmos offers: instead, I took a proper break and focused on what I really wanted to do. It might also be that the chicest thing anyone can do is not play into the island’s social game.
What fed my soul was spending time with my children and husband, laughing, swimming and playing backgammon with friends during the day and going on wonderful walks at sundown. There’s nothing I could recommend more, but please don’t tell anyone.
GETTY RULES
- Giagkos Pantheon in Chora for a delicious dinner
- Platia for drinks and a bit of dancing
- Vassili’s boat for lovely day trips
- Livadi Geranou for a great swim to a little island
This article was originally published in the October issue
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