Great British drives: Isle of Man

The Isle of Man is best known, of course, for its famous race, the annual Tourist Trophy, or “TT”. Every summer this event attracts so many fans that the island’s population of 84,000 is almost doubled.

 

It is precisely because of this formidable, sometimes deadly race, that the island is so suited to one of the most thrilling driving tours imaginable. The track – entirely on public roads – is there year-round to be enjoyed by everyone, hairpin bends, flat-out straights, mountain passes and all.

My own 140-mile adventure starts minutes from Ronaldsway airport, where I collect a Triumph Tiger 800 motorcycle. From there it’s an easy 15-minute ride along the A5 – over the Fairy Bridge where it’s unlucky not to say hello to “Themselves” – into the capital of Douglas, with its imposing seafront.

After dining at one of the restaurants hugging the cosy quay (most feature Queenies, or tender queen scallops, a local delicacy) you need a good night’s sleep to settle your nerves for your morning treat: an entire, unbroken lap of the 37.7-mile TT course.

TT fans will know the straights, dips and frankly terrifying bends by heart. They will probably crack back the throttle and miss the scenery altogether as, in their mind’s eye, they become legendary racers such as Joey Dunlop or Mike Hailwood, devouring bend after bend. I know I did.

The more sensible will take it at an easier pace, marvelling at stupendous views over moorland and mountain, maybe taking time out to ride the Snaefell Mountain Railway from Laxey, and wondering at the curious racetrack “furniture” – miles of black-and-white painted kerbs and thick padding cloaking bollards and trees.

Find the Grandstand (1) starting point, 10 minutes from the town centre, by driving north along Loch Promenade and taking a left up Broadway. Back in Douglas in a flash, there’s time to visit the marvellous, free, Manx Museum (2) to discover fascinating nuggets about the island’s history and ogle victorious TT motorcycles.

Now head north along the A2 to Laxey for an altogether different kind of wheel; “Lady Isabella”, the world’s largest working water wheel and well worth scaling for its magnificent views. Amble to the cheerful Ballacregga Old Corn Mill tea rooms (3) for a tasty inexpensive lunch, before nipping back across the A2 to Laxey beach for a swim and ice cream.

Continue north to follow one of the side roads signposting the beauty spot of Maughold Head (4), to your right. Admire the ancient cross slabs in St Maughold’s churchyard (5) and absorb the tranquillity. You can’t really get lost; any track will do and on this Isle civilisation is never far off, even though it sometimes feels a million miles away.

 

Backtrack to the A2 and then Ramsey before taking the A3 west to Kirk Michael for a pre-booked tour (normally on Sundays) of the ARE Motorcycle Museum (6), enthusiast Tony East’s personal collection of 109 cherished vintage bikes, exhibited in his garden sheds. He cheerfully admits he will talk you to death and while there’s no charge, he does like a donation to charity. It’s so Isle of Man, where it’s folly expecting to stick to a timetable.

More stirring scenery awaits as you head south along the swooping A4, A27 and A36 coast roads with views to the Irish Mourne Mountains. Descend to Port St Mary for a warm, friendly welcome from Rich and Adrienne Ashcroft at Patchwork (7), a cosy gourmet guesthouse with rooms.

I feel refreshed and overfed as day two begins by heading north on the A27 for Magnetic Hill where, it is said, an optical illusion means you can’t tell whether you are driving up or down hill. Dense fog made it impossible to be sure and, in any case, conjured a similar effect everywhere during my visit. It’s a good job it has cleared when I reach the beauty spot of Niarbyl Bay (8), before rejoining the A36 and A3 south, to “tank it”, in local parlance, along unrestricted sections of the Ballamodha straight.

 

Time to lower your heart rate by joining the A5/A31 heading west to the picturesque National Folk Museum (9) at Cregneash. Admire the restored crofters’ dwellings and marvel at volunteers dressed in authentic 19th-century attire who occasionally stop to talk into non-authentic walkie-talkies.

Push on down the A31 for a mile or so to soak up dramatic views of the Calf of Man from The Sound Café (10) for lunch, enjoying astonishingly good Queenies and mackerel pâté, before heading back along the A5 to the pretty harbour town of Castletown to explore Castle Rushen (11). Here, be chilled by tales of cruelty in this stark former prison, recoil from a real hangman’s belt and then be dazzled by the luxury of the adjacent lords’ accommodation, in the second half of this DIY tour.

Where better to take stock of your adventures than in the bar of the George Hotel (12)? The barman insists that I harbour my journey-soiled bike in his yard to avoid a parking fine, and makes me a splendid cup of tea before conjuring up two beautiful, crisp Manx pound notes as homecoming presents for my children.

It’s been a quick visit, in more ways than one, but long enough for me to feel sure that you really won’t find anywhere more hospitable or with a slower pace of life than the Isle of Man, whether you’re on two wheels or four.

GETTING THERE

British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) flies from London City to Ronaldsway from £138 return. The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company (08722 992992; steam-packet.com) has a year-round ferry service from Heysham and Liverpool and a seasonal one from Belfast and Dublin; from £65 each way for car plus two passengers. Ferry/accommodation deals are available through Steam Packet Holidays (steampacketholidays.com).

THE ROUTE

More than enough bends, chicanes and fast stretches to suit the Lewis Hamilton in you, but you can take the roads at the your own pace too and enjoy thrilling views over coast, hills and mountain. Rent a motorcycle from Jason Griffiths Motorcycles, Balthane, Ballasalla; (01624 825940; jasongriffiths.im), from £150 per day. Or a car from Mylchreests Car Rental (01624 623481; mylchreests.com), from £40.50 per day.

THE BEST PLACES TO STAY

Patchwork Café and Guest House, Port St Mary £

This small, charming, family-run gourmet café has been awarded the “Best Breakfast on the Isle of Man” (01624 836418; patchwork.im; double b&b from £80 per night).

The Claremont Hotel, Douglas ££

A spacious seafront hotel with great views over Douglas Bay, and an airy, artfully decorated restaurant and bar (01624 617068; claremont.im; double b&b from £99 per night).

Mount Murray Hotel and Country Club, Santon ££

A sprawling, comfortable hotel in extensive landscaped grounds and with an adjoining fitness centre (01624 661111; mountmurray.com; double b&b from £97 per night).

THE BEST PLACES TO EAT

Ballacregga Old Corn Mill, Laxey £

Picturesquely sited near the Great Laxey Wheel, with indoor and outdoor seating areas. Delicious home-made soups, baguettes, hot pots and sandwiches available from £4.50 (01624 863616; 9am-5pm daily).

The Sound Café, near Cregneash £

Perched in the island’s far south, the Sound Café has breathtaking views over the Calf of Man. Unwind while tucking into delicious gourmet dishes such as home-made lamb broth, from around £6.95 (01624 838123; dsleisureltd.com/sound.html; 10am-sunset from April-October).

14 North, Douglas £££

The family running this restaurant says it is designed with a “modern and rustic sensibility” that echoes the “honest, simple cuisine” – and they’re certainly right. Main dishes cost from around £17 (01624 664414; 14north.im; 10am-midnight Monday-Saturday; 12.15pm-4pm Sundays).

What to avoid

Take it easy on the unlimited stretches; and beware damp surfaces and gusting winds.

Don’t ignore posted speed limits – the police are vigilant.

Don’t forget to order panniers for your rental motorcycle.

Don’t leave your waterproofs behind; IOM weather changes in the blink of an eye.