Roll out the riesling, German wines are making a comeback

German vineyards, such as these on the banks of the Moselle river, have established a reputation for quality
German vineyards, such as these on the banks of the Moselle river, have established a reputation for quality
ALAMY

As rebranding jobs go, the rehabilitation of German wine has been a long process. But finally, 35 years after Blue Nun’s heyday, the British public are once again lapping up liebfraumilch.

Indeed sales are soaring, according to retailers, particularly in upmarket establishments as German vineyards have established a reputation among connoisseurs and sommeliers for quality, with their wines ageing well and offering good value.

Germany is the fastest-growing wine region at Justerini & Brooks, wine merchant to the royal family since 1749, with sales up 40 per cent over the past year. It says it sold more German wine in the first quarter of this year than in the whole of 2016.

Riesling is the most popular grape, accounting for 90 per cent of