Best places to eat somtum in Bangkok

Vibe: Phed Phed is not your typical Isaan eatery. The space takes on an unassuming Japanese café-inspired vibe, decorated with blue floor tiles, potted plants and white marble top tables.

Food: As the name suggests (it translates to “spicy, spicy” in Thai), the somtum here packs on the heat with eight chilis as the standard (you can of course ask for more or less chili). There are about 20 different somtum variations, ranging from the classic northeastern-style somtum Lao and somtum tua (string bean somtum) to seasonal creations like somtum strawberry and somtum taling pling (bilimbi fruit).

Vibe: The blond wood-heavy dining room features chic urban influences and pop cultural elements from the Isaan countryside. The first floor houses the somtum bar, where chefs pound together fresh ingredients in massive kroks, while the mezzanine offers a more private dining area.

Food: Khon Kaen-style papaya salad with salty accents, and a slight acidity and sweetness. Worth a try is the somtum sua Sakon Nakhon, which comes with heaps of kratin beans. Balance the somtum spice with heat-light dishes like marinated grilled pork served with jaew.

Vibe: Located outside of city limits, this somtum eatery is set within a rustic shack, giving diners an experience that can’t really be duplicated in Bangkok.

Food: Ubonratchathani cuisine takes the lead so expect somtum with strong plara (a seasoning produced by fermenting fish with toasted rice) flavors. The eatery also serves delicacies whipped up with foraged exotic ingredients like bee larvae, mae peng (flying ants), ant roe and kai pum (an algae-like plant) to appease adventurous gourmands.

Vibe: The Somtum Nua at Central Embassy is a more elegant and more hygienic branch (at least from what we see) of the famous somtum eatery in Siam Square. The space comes alive with potted plants and an art-splattered wall.

Food: Somtum Nua is the ideal spot if you like Bangkok-style papaya salad. Try the tum sading, a sweet variation that comes with fermented fish sauce and nutty kratin seeds, and is served with khanom jeen and pork crackling.

Vibe: Petchaburi Road is lined with hole-inthe-wall Isaan eateries that all look the same, but Jae Goy stands out for the crowd it packs. Expect a true street food experience, but don’t count on getting five-star hotel service.

Food: The menu is as thick as an encyclopedia, and includes selections ranging from northeastern fare to typical Thai street food. If you love strong-flavored plara, go for the boldly flavored somtum sua pu pla ra. This dish goes best with their grilled pork jowl and Isaan hotpot.

Vibe: This simple somtum parlor, set in the famous Or Tor Kor market, is a fuss-free eatery with rustic décor and simple outdoor seating. 

Food: The menu was put together by Soodjai Rodcheewa, who was named champion in a national somtum competition. Expect bold-flavored somtum with well-rounded pla ra tastes. Pair this salad with the restaurant’s famed grilled chicken.

Vibe: Usually filled with the lively chatter of office workers, Sabsaded’s casual, laidback atmosphere is heightened by mismatching furniture and unassuming décor.

Food: The somtum is bold and spicy, and liberally mixed with plara to please lovers of Isaan fare. If you are new to the odorous seasoning and want something milder, we suggest going for one of the simpler variations like somtum Thai or somtum khai khem (somtum with cured salted egg).

Vibe: This eatery is one of the many branches of Saep Classic, the country’s famous somtum chain. We particularly love this outlet for its cleanliness and easygoing vibe. Plus, a somtum break in between bouts of shopping is a real treat.

Food: Those unfamiliar with fermented fish sauce will be glad to know that the somtum here is seasoned to appeal to their uneducated palates. Try the mildly sweet somtum sua pu pla ra (papaya salad with fermented fish sauce, salted cured crab and rice noodle) to start. Pair it with their crispy-skin grilled chicken for a truly amazing meal.